Hand-made… these two words are time and again abused in the realm of watches, yet not so when discussing Beat Haldimann as we as of late did , or when discussing Atelier de Chronometrie. The last mentioned, a little independent watch brand from Barcelona, modifies or resuscitates vintage Omegas, altogether by hand. Roughly a year prior, our overseeing proofreader Brice Goulard expounded on Atelier de Chronometrie and its (around then) most recent creation, the AdC #5 . Today we’re investigating two comparatively hand-made, revamped watches dependent on vintage Omega wristwatches from the 1950s, named AdC #1 and AdC #2.
Last year I was in Barcelona and I had a couple of hours in the middle of gatherings. Since I’d found out about the brand, I connected with Atelier de Chronometrie and fortunately they had the opportunity to see me. Meeting with Santiago Martinez and Montse Gimeno of the brand, a couple living and working in midtown Barcelona, was an immense delight. Santiago is the brand’s inventive chief and deals with client relations, his accomplice Montse is AdC’s overseeing chief and furthermore deals with communication. The center of AdC really comprises a third individual, Moebius Rassman, who is ace watchmaker and specialized overseer of AdC. They cooperate with a few providers who, for example, produce a portion of the development parts. Key on the whole this, is that each Atelier de Chronometrie watch is hand-made in a customary manner, without the utilization of CNC machines. Here’s a screen capture of the Atelier de Chronometrie group on their website… the hands say it all.
Atelier de Chronometrie AdC #1 and #2
As every one of their watches, the AdC#1 and AdC #2, have been modified dependent on a vintage Omega; in these cases, the bases were individually Omega types 266 and 283. The two developments are alleged 13-lignes developments. ‘Ligne’ is an old French estimation unit, and changed over to millimeters, those 13 lignes equivalent approx. 30 millimeter (which is very huge for vintage developments from the mid-20th century.) This likewise clarifies why the previously mentioned Omega types are variations of the pined for Omega 30T2 types, moderately enormous, solid, dependable and exceptionally exact developments. While the two developments measure approx. 30mm in breadth, the stature is extraordinary. For type 266, in the AdC #1, the tallness is 4mm and for the type 283 in the AdC #2 the stature is 5.65mm. The straightforward purpose behind this lies in the way that extra haggles connect are needed for this development to include a focal seconds hand, and this adds approx. 1.5mm in height.
So first off, an old Omega development is dismantled and all parts are cleaned. Depending on the base development, either three (cal.266) or four (cal. 283) spans are made of Arcap, which will be 18k rose gold (or rhodium-plated). For type 266, 23 new parts are completely hand-made, without the utilization of CNC processing machines. For type 283 there are no under 35 new hand-made parts. All the old parts that will be reused, are cleaned and completely adjusted and decorated by hand, utilizing distinctive apparatuses and strategies. Fundamentally not one piece of the old development will be reused without A) being supplanted by a recently made part or B) being completely stripped and restored and decorated by hand. This implies conventional icing, angling, cleaning, perlage and even dark clean on some level surfaces, and the principle plate will be decorated with côtes roundabout. That’s a significant serious deal, as this is the manner by which watchmaking “used to be” and shockingly it is fairly uncommon these days.
Every time you need another wheel, you start from scratch….
Making another wheel from scratch… The wheel….
The spans on each Atelier de Chronometrie are interesting and are cut by hand; the openings for gems, pinions, and screws, must be bored by hand; angling, cleaning, other completing and decorations are applied by hand; lastly covered (18k gold or rhodium). Obviously, the gems must be squeezed in, and any remaining parts should be fit and secured.
Sawing a scaffold Two of the four bridges… work in advancement Finishing an extension Almost done… in any event the extensions. Next are wheels, pinions, spring, and a lot more parts
I surmise that these pictures show really well why a watch made by Atelier de Chronometrie will come at a cost. Making a watch by hand requires some serious energy, a great deal of time, and the individual doing it must have a ton of involvement and should be exceptionally talented. Atelier de Chronometrie doesn’t design its own developments, as previously mentioned Beat Haldimann (or Roger Smith or Philippe Dufour ), nonetheless, and this is a significant factor, the customary watchmaker’s work is as yet done by hand in the traditional way.
The base developments utilized by AdC are referred to for chronometer characteristics and are all things considered, a generally excellent beginning stage. AdC’s own titanium balance wheel (hand-made) is propelled by the old pocket watches and its six “masselottes” are handmade in 18k rose gold. The get away from wheel is slanted and cleaned by hand, tooth by tooth. The fastener wheel is likewise cleaned and cleaned to meet with AdC’s standards.
Hand slanting the getaway wheel, tooth by tooth… The fastener wheel, prior and then afterward.
While there are most likely a couple of AdC pieces completed, perhaps three or four, these principally fill in as grandstands for what the brand is able to do. At the point when you need to buy an Atelier de Chronometrie watch, you will pick the development, the design and completing of the scaffolds, the design of the dial, hands, case, hauls, and the sky is the limit from there. Having the option to have such a lot of say in your future watch is the genuine definition of extravagance that goes a long ways past a renowned name on the dial. You can even choiose to have your watch tried and affirmed by the Besançon Observatory!
I’ve picked to show the AdC #1 and AdC #2 in light of the fact that these show a significant improvement. Various dials, focal seconds hand versus a little off kilter seconds hand, distinctive case materials and sizes (18k white gold or red gold, 37.5mm or 40mm) and the diverse development completes, connect designs, and so forth A cost of approx. 40,000 EUR for a round gold watch with 3 hands isn’t modest, notwithstanding, when you consider the measure of time, inventiveness, gifted work and decision for the client, it’s really unparalleled.
More data on the Atelier de Chronometrie site and make a point to follow them on Instagram here .