While the consideration was mostly centered around the new CODE 11.59 assortment at the SIHH 2019, Audemars Piguet had various other new watches to show in its Royal Oak range – including an eminent Salmon dial Jumbo Royal Oak and one critical watch, another Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm. Meet the reference 15500ST, supplanting the 15400 and presenting a few monstrous updates, including a recently situated date and, primarily, a shiny new movement.
Farewell reference 15400
The Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm reference 15400, a watch presented in 2012, is currently out of the collection… But don’t be tragic, there’s another model to supplant it, and it adjusts a portion of the imperfections found on the more seasoned model.
The Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm reference 15400 was dispatched in 2012 as an update of the reference 15300, the 39mm, programmed adaptation of the Royal Oak – a watch that was such a sportier, more strong, more available, less in-your-face rendition of the Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin, with a more old style programmed development, a somewhat thicker case and generally speaking, a more standard interpretation of the Royal Oak plan. While the size of the case developed, the development inside these two references was the equivalent, the type 3120 – a development with a moderately little measurement of 26.60mm.
Because of that, the date on the reference 15400 was situated far in the center of the dial, something that Audemars Piguet compensated by adding a little hour marker close to the date window. On an individual level, this has never been an issue for me, yet a few authorities complained about the way that the type 3120 development was excessively little for a 41mm case. Other than that, the type 3120 has consistently been a generally excellent motor – solid, exact, pleasantly decorated.
This conceivable issue of the date window and a caseback with a development excessively little for the case is presently finished, as Audemars Piguet has another watch in the assortment to supplant the reference 15400. Fitted with another development, another dial (and not simply another date position) alongside a few other updates… Let’s investigate the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500.
The new Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500
So Audemars Piguet has another programmed Royal Oak… But don’t anticipate uncommon changes, the idea is as yet unchanged. Compared to the first symbol, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 39mm reference 15202, the new reference 15500 is as yet bigger, thicker, bolder, more strong and somewhat less refined in its execution – yet in addition more affordable and most likely simpler to discover new in boutiques.
When compared to the more established reference 15400, the new model feels like a straightforward update, with minor changes. Nonetheless, if the general idea and configuration stay comparative, there is undiscovered greatness under the surface the eye in this new 15500.
A new movement
The primary update is, obviously, the new development. Audemars Piguet presented a whole line-up of new in-house developments with its CODE 11.59 assortment – tourbillon, incorporated chronograph and programmed time-and-date – and hence it is normal to see these new types being executed in different assortments. The reference 15500 is furnished with the type 4302, a similar development as utilized in the CODE 11.59 Selfwinding ( more subtleties here ).
This development is altogether new and has been grown inside by Audemars Piguet as an advanced type. It estimates 32mm in distance across, which absolutely is more proper for current measured watches, including this 41mm Royal Oak Selfwinding. Compared to the past type 3120, it shows a few mechanical upgrades. The recurrence of the managing organ is currently 4Hz, compared to 3Hz previously. The force save has been expanded to 70 hours over the 60 hours for the previous ref. 15400.
Having another and bigger development brings about more equilibrium on the caseback side. The development is currently dimensioned by the width of the watch, something that surely is wonderful. As to, the type 4302 doesn’t disillusion. It includes a skeletonized gold rotor with sublime sharp anglages. Scaffolds are enhanced with Geneva stripes, and the angles are cleaned. The format of this type 4302 is likewise very lovely, with numerous specialized parts being visible.
A new dial
Updating the development of a watch has results on the dial and the case. Furthermore, this is valid for this new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500ST. Once more, while the general plan has been held, various updates are to be seen on this watch. Some anticipated, some more surprising.
First of all, nothing to stress over with respect to the mark Tapisserie dial, an essential component of the Royal Oak (whichever release). This new reference 15500 actually depends on the guilloché “Grande Tapisserie” design, with a delicate surface. In any case, even this has changed somewhat. When taken a gander at intently, you can detect that the extents are unique, the notches are more slender than previously, and the squares feel somewhat bigger. Additionally, the example feels all the more exactly applied to the dial, with a superior meaning of the lines. Unobtrusive yet noticeable.
Then, while the dials of the reference 15300 and 15400 were altogether covered with the “Grande Tapisserie” design, the new reference 15500 highlights a smooth, non-finished moment train on the outskirts of the dial, with 60 slender markers imprinted in white. Additionally, this new form disposes of the “Automatic” notice at 6 o’clock and the “Audemars Piguet”, and the applied “AP” logo have been modestly enlarged.
The hands and hour lists of this new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500 have additionally been overhauled. While still dependent on the exemplary Royal Oak shape, they are largely more extensive currently, considering more iridescent material and a sportier, more hearty look – assisting with separating this model from the more refined 15202. The hour records are additionally more limited than on past models, however the twofold mallet is as yet present at 12 o’clock. Another change concerns the stabilizer of the seconds hand, which has been molded like the remainder of the hands and opened on this new version.
Last yet not least, the situation of the date – which is the main update on this new model. Having a bigger development inside its case, the new Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm currently has a date window situated on the outskirts of the dial, without the presence of a short applied list close to it. While this new position is dispassionately more adjusted and more adjusted to the size of the case, I discovered it somewhat upsetting at first… Maybe I am too used to the more seasoned reference 15400? All things considered, this must be viewed as an improvement compared to the past models.
An practically unaltered case
The case keeps its 41mm distance across and a similar generally plan. This implies that we have the mark sharp case, a coordinated wristband and the octagonal bezel on top. The shapes, the completing of the multitude of surfaces and the extents are for the most part roughly equivalent to previously. Nonetheless, here once more, the new development has had results on the case.
Compared to the reference 15400, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 15500ST adheres to its 41mm width however is modestly thicker, with a 10.40mm profile compared to 9.80mm stature in the past – an expansion supported by the new development, which is more hearty than the past type 3120. Once on the wrist, the extra 0.60mm are practically vague. The case is as yet water-impervious to 50 meters, and the crown is as yet screwed – making this watch more fitting for day by day use than the somewhat more sensitive 15202. This watch is marginally bolder and has more presence on the wrist.
For the rest, this Royal Oak 15500 holds all the credits of the assortment, which means a wonderfully executed case, with brushed surfaces illuminated by cleaned subtleties, the famous octagonal bezel with eight white gold screws and its chain-like incorporated steel wristband that partakes such a huge amount in the plan of this watch. Obviously, the completing and gathering are faultless, with sharp changes of the multitude of parts and super-clean boundaries lines between the brushed and cleaned surfaces.
Price and availability
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500 will be accessible in 5 distinct versions, beginning at CHF 19,300 (the suspended ref. 15400 was estimated at CHF 17,900).
- Steel/wristband/blue dial – CHF 19,300
- Steel/wristband/record dim dial – CHF 19,300
- Steel/wristband/dark dial – CHF 19,300
- 18k Pink gold/wristband/dark dial – CHF 50,700
- 18k Pink gold/cowhide lash/dark dial – CHF 32,100
The blue model shot here is the simply one to be a shop restrictive, the four different releases will be accessible at true retailers too.
Objectively talking, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 41mm 15500 comes with a variety of upgrades. The development is essentially better from numerous points of view – outwardly and precisely. The dial, with the new situation of the date window and a more exact meaning of the guilloché design, is additionally a decent redesign. At last, the general look is marginally sportier, somewhat bolder as well, making this new reference 15500 simpler to separate from 15202.
All in all, this new reference is objectively better. However, objectivity isn’t the possibly factor with regards to refreshing a particularly notable watch. This watch will unquestionably have its naysayers and its allies, much the same as the 15400 did before.
More subtleties at www.audemarspiguet.com .