Perhaps perhaps the most astounding dispatches of 2019 was Glashütte Original’s pristine Spezialist assortment of dive watches. Dive watches from Glashütte Original? No chance. Was this one more brand hopping on the hugely mainstream vintage/dive watch temporary fad? A urgent endeavor to diversify a generally exemplary portfolio by designing another line of retro divers to pull in a more youthful customer? All things considered, the appropriate response is yes and no. Indeed, Glashütte Original needed something energetic and new to complement its offer and no, it didn’t have to develop anything. Potentially amazing to a few, however this assortment, and considerably more the present Glashütte Original SeaQ 39.5mm, is effectively recognizable in the brand’s archives.
Indeed, the plan group at GO didn’t have to look far, the appropriate response was in that general area, right in front of them in their own chronicles and in plain view in the German Watch Museum directly as it were. A 1969 model, known as the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 and created by state-run VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe (GUB), was picked as the managing light of the SeaQ assortment. We should investigate the beginning of the SeaQ and why this 39.5mm model, with genuine noteworthy accreditations and an air of vintage cool, may be the resurrection of the ideal vintage dive watch.
The amazing ascent, fall and resurgence of Glashütte
Glashütte, the little Saxon town with the greatest names in German watchmaking, is a steady wellspring of astonishing disclosures. A visit to the neighborhood German Watch Museum uncovers its rich horological past dating from 1845 when Ferdinand Adolph Lange established the frameworks to what in particular would become the focal point of German watchmaking. In addition to the fact that Lange attracted other expert watchmakers from Dresden, together they put the modest community of Glashütte on the global guide and changed over the assignment of beginning “Made in Glashütte” into a seal of value. Exactness marine chronometers, controller or pendulum clocks and pocket watches were standard toll from the enormous names around, as was advancement, with Alfred Helwig who built up the Flying Tourbillon in 1920, just as the school of watchmaking in Glashütte. Under the seal “Original Glashütte”, neighborhood watchmakers offered their abilities worldwide since 1916.
Second World War left its blemish on Glashütte, which fell on the Soviet side of the boundary in East Germany and its watchmaking assets were significantly influenced. This put the determination of Glashütte to the test once more. With adaptability, creative strength and development of custom, they empower their art to keep on creating – notwithstanding troublesome monetary and political conditions. The changed monetary request prompted the consolidation of all actually existing Glashütte watch companies in July 1951. The monetary confinement by and by urges watchmakers to new turns of events and autonomous arrangements in accuracy engineering.
On October 16, 1990, Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb GmbH was entered in the commercial register. In rejoined Germany, the company becomes the authority lawful replacement to all past Glashütte watch companies. It will be procured by the Swatch Group in 2000 and now worked under the commercial name Glashütte Original.
Although the 40 years or with the goal that the GUB was dynamic in Glashütte probably won’t have been the time of most prominent innovativeness or refinement, a few watches have become faction objects. The 1964 GUB Spezichron watch, with its cool pad formed 1970s case and astounding inclination dial tones, isn’t just well known on the gatherer’s market, it is the progenitor of Glashütte Original’s profoundly effective Seventies Panorama Date and even the hallucinogenic dials of the Sixties family .
But what truly shocked us at the 2019 Swatch Group Time to Move Event was the dispatch of Spezialist, a completely new family centered around instrument watches! The Spezialist assortment has additionally utilized the outline of a GUB watch, this time the 1969 Spezimatic Type RP TS 200. What’s more, given the latest thing for vintage watches and sports watches, this 1969 model was asking to be revisited.
Back in its day, the 1969 Spezimatic Type RP TS 200 was a generally uncommon (delivered in little amounts) dive watch outfitted with the type 75. Intended for proficient divers and combat divers the same, the 36mm Spezimatic Diver was portrayed by its superb rate exactness, dependability and hearty development. Plan savvy, the Spezimatic was a compact, utilitarian dive watch with a solid East German character. With its dark dial, monstrous (and iridescent) numerals, thick hands and markers, the Spezimatic gave GO the ideal mixed drink for a crowd of people of eager for vintage watch purchasers. Combined with its late 1960s charm, which you can find in the Spezimatic’s clearly instrument watch nature and fairly simple completions, you can perceive any reason why GO hopped on it.
The Glashütte Original SeaQ 39.5mm
The Glashütte Original SeaQ model we have today has a distance across of 39.5mm and a stature of 12.15mm – pretty contained estimations for a dive watch in 2020 and just 2.5mm bigger than the original Spezimatic. It sits comfortably on the wrist (that is Brice rather little 16.5cm wrist in the photographs) and highlights cleaned and brushed surfaces which proceed on the incorporated metal wristband. Guaranteeing the 200m water-obstruction of the SeaQ 39.5mm, the crown is in a bad way down and the caseback is shut with a spear, 20 waves (addressing the water-opposition of the watch) and a twofold G logo engraved in its centre.
The compulsory unidirectional bezel to time submersions has a scored edge and a dark clay, scratch-safe trim with white Arabic numerals and an iridescent triangle. Controlling the bezel delivers a delightful snap. The watch has the standard feeling of value found on all GO watches.
Dial Made in Pforzheim
“Wow, those are large numbers!” was my first comment when I saw the watch. Set against the galvanic, sunray-brushed dark dial, you can see them from a long ways off, during the day and significantly more so around evening time. In any case, isn’t that definitely the errand of a dive watch? You are intended to have the option to recognize the hands and numerals in the haziest, murkiest waters. All the Arabic numerals, the hour markers and the three hands are treated with a “Old Radium” beige iridescent material, as a suggestion to the patinated lume utilized on the original Spezimatic. This is one of the primary contrasts with the 43.2mm model with Panorama Date , which highlights applied lists and white lume – bringing about a more current, more specialized look.
However, what’s so uncommon however about these markings is their volume, despite the fact that they are painted and not applied. You can really perceive how the beige Super-LumiNova rises like a 3D figure from the white boundary. The explanation behind this consideration regarding subtleties is that this dial, alongside the wide range of various dials of SeaQ models, is made at GO’s own personal dial make in Pforzheim.
The dark dial of this SeaQ model beginnings life as a metal clear. When the catch openings, date window and focal opening for the hands have been squeezed into the clear, the metal surface is ground and cleaned by machine with an exceptional fluid to acquire a serious shine finish. This is an important essential for the following stage including a vertically turning metal brush to acquire the sunray finish. When the inky dark tone has been acquired through galvanisation, it’s prepared for the use of numerals, files, logos, etc.
The numerals and lists of the 39.5mm SeaQ models are imprinted on the dial in a light groundwork tone. A delicate elastic cushion gets the ink from a carved plate and dazzles it on the outside of the dial. A similar cycle, utilizing white printing ink is performed for the wide range of various subtleties. Really at that time can the numerals and records be painstakingly filled in by hand with “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova. This outcomes in unmistakable and striking numerals that are, nonetheless, astonishingly executed.
Although you can’t see it, the development underneath deck is Glashütte Original’s norm in-house type 39, like the one utilized in the Sixties 39mm model , however with a date work here. A programmed development with a 40-hour power hold and 4Hz recurrence, it offers hours, minutes, seconds (with hacking seconds for exact setting) and a date instrument. Notwithstanding the way that it is covered up, type 39-11 is delightfully gotten done with angled edges, Glashütte stripe completes, a swan-neck fine change (not engraved) and a skeletonised rotor.
German fixation on tests
Beyond its vintage dive watch style, the SeaQ is an ensured proficient dive watch upheld up with global ISO 6425 norm and Germany’s DIN 8306 same. A snappy recap of what these guidelines request may be valuable. Any watch trying to comply with the principles set somewhere near ISO 6425 needs to comply with a few essentials: water-obstruction more prominent than 100m; a plunging time/slipped by time marker (for example pivoting bezel); unmistakably recognized moment markings on dial; satisfactory perceivability at 25cm in absolute murkiness; sign that watch is running in complete dimness, generally a running seconds hand with a radiant tip; attractive protection from 4,800 A/m; stun opposition; tie/arm band strength; and a watch case impervious to destructiveness of seawater. Different tests included warming the watch to temperatures of 40-45ºC, covering the watch with a virus piece of felt, and afterward checking for dampness in the watch just as presenting the watch to pressures you may discover at high heights (- 0.2 bar) and submerged (25 bar). Basically, the Glashütte Original SeaQ 39.5mm is seaworthy.
I truly appreciated reviewing this watch. Dissimilar to so numerous vintage wannabes or “faux vintage” watches available today, this is the genuine article. It has a story to advise and ships you back to the GUB years, to the days when the state-run VEB Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe created no-ornament, vigorous utilitarian watches. Not exclusively does the SeaQ resemble a vintage diver, it plays out the piece of an expert contemporary diver.
Although I was somewhat ruffled from the start by the sheer size of the numerals, I currently understand that they are an essential piece of the watch’s practical character and are a distinctive attribute in an ocean of Submariner copies. Combined with Glashütte Original’s meticulousness working on it and wristband, the hearty programmed type and the affectionately made-in-Pforzheim dial, the SeaQ has absolutely got my attention.
straps, accessibility and price
The Glashütte Original SeaQ 39.5mm we had for this review comes with a very much completed and comfortable hardened steel arm band (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70) fitted with a very sharp and simple to-utilize 8-venture fine change diver augmentation. Two different ties, a hearty nylon tie and an emblazoned elastic tie are likewise accessible. The SeaQ 39.5mm model with a tempered steel wristband retails for EUR 9,700 (on elastic or nylon, with pin clasp, value begins at EUR 8,500).
More data at glashuette-original.com .