During Time To Move 2019, Swatch Group’s own occasion to introduce the new assortments, Glashütte Original presented several watches absolutely in accordance with its standard origination of watchmaking, for example, the facelifted Senator Chronometer or an engraved PanoInverse . However, the superstar, the watch that the Saxon brand introduced first, the principle oddity for 2019… is a watch none of us really anticipated from the brand; a dive watch assortment named SeaQ. Following our first look just after its introduction , it is time currently to have a more intensive glance at the cutting edge SeaQ Panorama Date, to check whether this Saxon dive watch is persuading (or not).
The Glashütte Original SeaQ marks the presentation of various things for the brand. In addition to the fact that this is another watch fragment, with different references presented, in different tones, sizes and complications, however SeaQ is the principal individual from another assortment, the supposed Spezialist line… So, to put it plainly, that could imply that we can hope for something else of these instrument-enlivened watches in the coming years. Presently you know!
For the previous 10 years, Glashütte Original has smoothed out its assortments, eliminating various references and adhering to only four primary lines; the exemplary Senator watches, the specialized Pano with helter-skelter dials, the more original vintage (Sixties & Seventies) and ladies’ watches. While doing that, the brand cleared out more seasoned assortments, which incorporated some sportier pieces, for example, the pilot’s watches – by one way or another a German practice – or the Sport Evolution assortment. So surely, there were more powerful steel watches at Glashütte Original in those days, however never such apparatus like, instrument-propelled pieces.
Now, let’s be straightforward, when we got the news for the new Glashütte Original SeaQ assortment, it came as a surprise. No discussion. This type of hearty dive watch is obviously not what we anticipated from GO. Notwithstanding, there are numerous explanations behind the presentation of this new collection.
First, SeaQ hasn’t surfaced all of a sudden, despite the fact that it implies plunging further into the brand’s history (quip expected) and some more underground assortments. Recollect that, during the 1950s and 1960s, when the brand was heavily influenced by the GDR and named Glashütte Uhrenbetrieb, the creation was centered around utilitarian and open watches, and not very good quality horology, just like the case today. This gave us some work of art, dressy pieces yet in addition a few sports watches, for example, the 1969 “Spezimatic Type RP TS 200”, grew explicitly for sporting jumping (something advertised, harking back to the days)… and that very watch is the motivation behind the new SeaQ assortment – the filiation isn’t difficult to detect.
And here comes the SeaQ Panorama Date
As referenced, there’s a second purpose for the production of the SeaQ assortment, which has to do with vital choices. Previously, there were brands for dress watches and brands for instrument watches – the fundamental contrast between these two markets being costs and movements, as the “tool watch brands” were for the most part depending on outsourced movements. Presently, things have changed as have assumptions from clients. The sports watch is not, at this point carefully identified with instrument purposes and this implies that clients have the wish for top of the line sports pieces. Most brands have entered this market, even A. Lange & Söhne did, with the Odysseus watch .
Glashütte Original does things any other way, however. While most brands play on the 1970s extravagance sports watch idea, GO previously had such a piece in assortment; the Seventies . Along these lines, to add something genuinely sports-situated, the choice was made to enter the dive watch market, another super mainstream fragment. This brought about two fundamental watches, one being the vintage-motivated 39.5mm SeaQ, the other being the current watch, the more present day, all the more very good quality however no less completely spec-ed SeaQ Panorama Date.
Modern origination, vintage taste
While the more modest rendition of this watch doesn’t shroud its motivation, the bigger SeaQ Panorama Date will in general play on the summoning of the past however in an advanced bundle. Surely, the dial’s format and the general state of the case reverberation the old Spezimatic, yet with respect to the rest, this watch is a contemporary interpretation of the dive watch.
The instance of this SeaQ Panorama Date holds the normal late-1960s/mid 1970s plan of the Spezimatic, with carries that are incorporated into the casebands, sharps points and roundabout brushed surfaces – plan hints that were somewhat famous in those days. The completing is lovely, with pleasantly executed brushed surfaces and cleaned angles on the sides. The instance of this form, made of tempered steel, is topped by a uni-directional pivoting bezel, with an artistic supplement and hour long plunging scale. All exemplary elements.
The case quantifies a powerful 43.2mm measurement and 15.65mm in stature. On paper, this seems like a gigantic watch – and in your grasp, it has a reasonable sensation of strength and weight. In any case, the watch is undeniably more compact on the wrist and in reality even. Because of the common 1970s incorporated drags, the case isn’t excessively long and embraces the wrist. So in spite of the fact that you should not anticipate that this watch should be little, in any event it is a huge watch that wears comfortably.
The SeaQ Panorama Date is water-impervious to 300m, highlights sapphire gems front and caseback and a screw-down crown, which is marginally secured by a cautious crown-monitor gadget. Decent plan, exemplary determinations, intense execution.
Dial and functions
Most of the old Spezimatic motivation can be seen on the dial of this new assortment. While the more modest model plays again on unadulterated vintage pieces of information, this more current, better quality and bigger SeaQ Panorama Date inspires the past in a more cautious manner. The 1969 model is effectively conspicuous gratitude to its combination of curiously large Arabic numerals for much number and implement markers for odd numbers, combined with similarly larger than usual hands – and a maxi-bolt hand for the minutes.
This original format was the base for the new SeaQ Panorama Date, which depends again on similar combination of Arabic numerals and rod markers, just as similar style for the hands. Every one of these elements are larger than average, making a maxi-dial feeling, however on the opposite of the more modest SeaQ, this Panorama Date model has applied and outlined markers to give a more rich and more contemporary appeal to this watch. These elements are liberally loaded up with Super-LumiNova. No compelling reason to say, neatness is magnificent altogether conditions, because of an extraordinary difference with the dial, the impressions of the cleaned metal or the extreme glow at night.
Regarding the plan itself, these curiously large elements might actually feel exaggerated to some – at any rate, this was my response when I previously saw the watch. Nonetheless, in the wake of seeing it on various occasions now, I need to concede that first, these look very great and, second, these markers and hands give a special personality to the watch – difficult in a market as swarmed as the dive watch market.
Back to the dial itself, the SeaQ Panorama Date is accessible in two tones, one being an exemplary dark and the other, the current dark blue rendition. The two models have a stirred, sunray brushed surface that adds to the innovation of the watch. The dials are domed, much the same as the sapphire precious stone on top, bringing about twists on the outskirts – and that is, as far as I might be concerned, a long way from a negative viewpoint, as it carries life to the watch. As consistently with Glashütte Original, the execution of the dial is impressive.
As showed by its name, this SeaQ is outfitted with the brand’s signature complication, the Panorama date, which fundamentally is an enormous date on two non-covering circles. Is it important in such a specific situation? Not actually, however at any rate it looks much preferred proportioned over a little date window at 6 or 3 o’clock.
Powering the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is the brand’s present day programmed development, the Caliber 36. This development was presented alongside the Senator Excellence assortment and will become the new standard programmed for GO.
This type 36 runs at 4Hz and highlights a silicon balance spring (hostile to attractive, less influenced by temperature… ), which was a first for the brand. Its force save is a comfortable 100 hours (approx. 4 days), through a solitary barrel (and a long fountainhead of 68cm, created by Nivarox). The barrel is twisted by a substantial and enormous rotor, with a 21k gold fringe mass. The general completion is exceptionally lovely and aware of the German creation: Glashutte rubbings on the ¾ plate, cleaned chamfers, skeletonized rotor with the Double G, blued screws, obvious wheels… And this development is enormous (32.3mm) and estimated likewise to the case, making it charming when seen from the sapphire caseback.
First, let’s talk about development testing. As all watches with type 36, the SeaQ Panorama Date is controlled and changed in six positions and to various temperatures, at four phases of the force save, and for both the exactness, the plentifulness and the length of the force hold. This testing technique is done inside. The watches are conveyed with an authentication validating of the results.
But… The SeaQ Panorama Date is, above all else, a dive watch. As you would know, the idea of a dive watch is dependent upon target measures – all brands utilize the terms dive watch however, indeed, few could really be named dive watches. However, this a watch from Glashütte and Germans don’t refuse around with procedures.
To guarantee greatest dependability, each and every watch is tried and broke down in-house for conformance with DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 principles – the two standards characterizing dive watches. Remembered for the testing methodology are the accompanying steps:
- Moisture in the watch – the watch is first warmed for 30 minutes to 40-45°C and afterward covered with a virus wet piece of felt. In the event that there is any dampness in the watch, it would show up now as consolidated water within surface of the glass.
- Resistance at under and overpressure – in the first place, the SeaQ is presented to an underpressure of – 0.2 bar. This mimics the utilization of the watch at high heights (in the mountains or in an airplane). The watch is then presented to an overpressure (as at incredible profundities submerged) of 125%. This relates with 30-bar or 300m watches to an estimation of 37.5 bar or 375m.
- Water-obstruction test and outer drying – The watch is uncovered in refined water to an overpressure of 125% (37.5 bar in the current case), which is maintained for a specific timeframe. In a subsequent stage, the pressing factor is then brought down to a slight overpressure of 0.3 bar. Following the water-obstruction test in a water shower, the outside of the SeaQ is dried by pivoting the watch under a blind of air. This guarantees that no dampness stays on the watch.
- Moisture in the watch after testing – Once again warmed for 30 minutes to 40-45°C. A short time later, a wet piece of felt is again positioned briefly upon the upper surface of the glass.
The SeaQ Panorama Date can be conveyed on different ties and bracelets. You can go for an easygoing looking dim water-safe nylon network lash – as far as we might be concerned, the coolest alternative – or an exemplary dark elastic tie. Both can be furnished with a steel pin clasp or a steel collapsing clasp.
The other alternative offered by Glashütte Original is a 3-connect, brushed and cleaned, treated steel arm band. It is furnished with a down to earth fine change component, permitting to broaden the length of the arm band by squeezing the Double-G logo on the fasten – with eight little steps.
As we said directly all along, this SeaQ was fairly unforeseen, as GO isn’t a brand with a long history in the dive watch market… So how has the brand fared? Quite well, truth be told. All things considered, the SeaQ Panorama Date is a persuading extravagance dive watch, which can act in most wet environments. Is this its genuine job? Likely not, as most future proprietors will presumably wear it as a work area diver. However, it CAN perform in the event that you need to utilize it the legitimate way.
Design-wise, knowing this “desk diver vocation”, the decision for a huge breadth, a Panorama Date work and a better quality dial bode well. Consider this watch an equivalent to a cutting edge Fifty Fathoms, a watch with the looks and feel of a diver yet made for regular citizen purposes. A valid statement is that GO figured out how to give this watch its own character. Also, obviously, the execution of the case, the dial and the development resemble every single GO watch, exact and clean. Presently, know that this form is somewhat powerful and requires a moderately enormous wrist. For those of you with more modest wrists, you’ll be glad to discover that a 39.5mm form likewise exists.
price and availability
The Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is presently accessible at shops and retailers (November 2019) and will be valued at EUR 11,000 on elastic or engineered lashes with a pin clasp, EUR 11,300 on elastic or manufactured tie with collapsing fasten and EUR 12,200 on steel bracelet.
More subtleties at www.glashuette-original.com .