Precision, wonderful execution and magnificence are genuine worries in Japanese craftsmanship and Grand Seiko’s mission, since the time its creation in 1960, is to satisfy these requesting standards. Accuracy and standout execution are not difficult to measure in Grand Seiko’s collection, yet magnificence is subjective depending on each person’s preferences and not every person warms to Grand Seiko’s traditionalist, regularly austere styling. Like different watches in the Elegance assortment, including the super prudent and calm SBGW231 or the hypnotizing blue dial of the SBGK005G , this Elegance GMT SBGM221 should be found in the metal to value the model completes that are seldom seen on Swiss watches in the under 5k section. Along these lines, let’s go inside and out with this steel Elegance GMT model and check whether it exemplifies Grand Seiko’s mission to make the “ideal watch”.
A basic case with remarkable finishes
The treated steel case has a breadth of 39.5mm, which these days is very near dress watch principles. The 13.7mm tallness of the case is somewhat thicker than dress watch commands however the shape of the hauls implies that the watch embraces the wrist impeccably, as you can find in the photographs of the watch on Brice’s 17cm wrist. At last, the drag to-carry measurement is simply over 46mm, which is by today’s guidelines, rather little. Another perspective to mull over is the state of the case. Models in the Elegance line have somewhat less rakish, blocky cases than models in Grand Seiko’s Heritage and Sports lines increasing the elegance factor noticeably.
Ok, we’ve covered the case specs and would now be able to move to the ‘wow’ factor of this Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM221: the cleaning. It actually should be found in the metal to accept and I urge any questioning Thomas to visit a neighborhood Seiko wholesaler to perceive what we mean. This is genuinely a degree of execution you are not liable to discover on your conventional extravagance Swiss watch. Like shining Japanese katana blades, the zaratsu cleaning looking into the issue amplifies the collaboration of light on the level surfaces to make sharp, fresh edges and a mirror-like surface without any contortions. The degree of cleaning is wonderful to the point that you can see your appearance on the case.
Although the word ‘zaratsu’ might sound Japanese, it is, indeed, the Japanese way to express the German word ‘sallaz’, the name of the German maker of the cleaning machines obtained by Seiko during the 1950s. Three years of preparing are needed before an expert can lay his hands on the zaratsu cleaning machine.
The dial of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM221 has a warm, reflexive ivory tone and is completely level. In the event that you see the dial with a loupe you will value the astounding degree of detail that has been put resources into each and every feature.
The rectangular hour markers resemble small scale models with features and a mirror-finish on the predominant surfaces. On the more straightforward hour markers, you’ll locate no less than 8 hand-cleaned aspects. On the 12, 6 and 9 o’clock markers, it’s 11 of them… And they are on the whole entirely executed, with reflections changing from splendid white to practically full dark, without bending or blemishes. It is simply impressive.
The hands follow a comparative method and are so forcefully characterized you could utilize them in a working theater. The top surface here is reflect cleaned – some GS watches have a brushed top surface – again to an impeccable level. The sides of the hands have a sharp and wide incline, again reflect hand-cleaned. Contingent upon the point, the difference between the surfaces looks shocking as well as upgrades legibility… when one surface is brilliant, the other is practically dark and the other way around. The Japanese experts from Grand Seiko accomplish have accomplished magnificence and practicality.
A 24-hour GMT scale with Arabic numerals is demonstrated with a warmth blued bolt tipped hand. This hand is again wonderfully executed, despite the fact that less expressive. It likewise adds a cautious bit of shading to this dial. The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM221 highlights a date window, which again comes with a perfectly executed slanted edge at 3 o’clock. I know bunches of you have issues with date windows, yet with regards to a GMT traveller’s watch, it is truly useful.
Setting the home and nearby time is a snap and everything is executed through the crown. The fundamental hour hand (neighborhood time) bounces advances or in reverse while the blue 24-hour hand can be set to home time. A container molded sapphire gem, with against intelligent covering on the underside, ensures the dial.
Altogether, it is elusive blemishes regarding execution on this SBGM221. All angles – hands, lists, dial, printings – uncover a degree of execution you’ll just find on top of the line Swiss watches – in the EUR 15k class and up. Regardless of whether you like the plan is clearly close to home, yet the combination of the splendid, sharp and intelligent case/hands/files with the delicate, cream shade of the dial has incredible elegance and enough boldness to make this watch (far) eliminated from classic.
Still devoured by accomplishing the “ideal watch”, Hattori’s Grand Seiko watchmakers needed to go above and beyond and made a totally new development, type 9S, delivered in 1998. Having finished the Swiss COSC chronometer assessments with no trouble at all, Grand Seiko’s group chose to raise the stakes and presented its type 9S to its own chronometry test, the Grand Seiko standard (17 days of testing, six unique positions, three distinct temperatures, exactness of – 3/+5 seconds for each day).
Calibre 9S66 is a deduction of the popular 9S with an extra GMT work. Inside its cutting edge fabricate, Grand Seiko utilizes Micro-Electro-Mechanical Systems (MEMS) innovation to create lightweight exactness parts, including the break haggle forks. Grand Seiko has built up a cobalt-nickel compound for its hairspring known as “Spron 610” giving more versatility to stuns and attractive fields. The supported origin is equipped for accomplishing a degree of force for a force hold of up to 72 hours.
However, the change of the hairspring is done totally by hand by a specific group of expert skilled workers. Indeed, even the individual teeth of the pinion wheels are cleaned by hand to guarantee the progression of force with insignificant loss of energy.
You can see the completions of the powerful programmed Caliber 9S66 with its equilibrium wheel under the sapphire gem caseback. Enhanced with Seiko stripes and perlage, the development is all around completed however not maybe to the levels you would connect with a watch from Glashütte. It is sharp and slick, obviously, however somewhat specialized. It may come up short on a touch of that Swiss or German abundance in the design that makes a fine development alluring. Some cleaned inclines and blued screws, despite the fact that not your regular Japanese method of beautifying a development, would make the watch much more spectacular.
A solid partner in crime with its easy to-utilize GMT usefulness and liberal force hold, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM221 is a model marriage of innovative components and fastidious craftsmanship that Grand Seiko makes progress toward in its quest for the “ideal watch”.
Sizing is for all intents and purposes awesome yet would be 100% great if the thickness were trimmed down a piece and I would have favored the date window to have a similar shading foundation as the dial – despite the fact that it coordinates the window’s frame… yet these are close to home inclinations and, let’s be straightforward, won’t change the general magnificence of the watch.
My early introductions are in every case drastically modified in the wake of review Grand Seiko watches in the metal. What may come across as a work of art, traditionalist, calm sort of watch in pictures focuses in a completely extraordinary light when seen, in actuality. It’s a watch that necessities time to be valued and respected, making a close bond with its wearer. This watch has an unfathomable appeal, an incredible presence and feels definitely less formal than you’d might suspect from the outset. It’s dressy without being severe and each and every point uncovers amazingly completed subtleties. Furthermore, the manner in which it plays with surrounding light is mesmerizing.
The SBGM221 comes with a rich earthy colored crocodile calfskin lash and collapsing clasp – the watch shot here being an individual thing and not a review/press watch, it is here worn on a smooth and more easygoing tie, which adds extraordinary appeal to this piece. The OEM tie and clasp are, in any case, professional yet perhaps all in all too formal.
The retail cost of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGM221 is EUR 4,800. That is a considerable amount of cash for the vast majority of us, however I challenge you to locate a Swiss partner with this degree of completing and accuracy execution at this price.
More data at grand-seiko.com .