Introducing the Ferdinand Berthoud “Oeuvre d’Or” Collection (Hands-On)

If you have been following the watchmaking scene in the course of recent years, you will be acquainted with the resurrection of Ferdinand Berthoud. Reviving the name of perhaps the best watchmaker, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and his group have shown a significant capacity to shock and stun us with each of their creations.

The brand’s first present day creation, the Chronomètre FB1 was granted the Aiguille d’Or at the GPHG 2016, the Oscars of watchmaking. The model was initially introduced in white gold with titanium carries (FB1.1) and pink gold and ceramic hauls (FB1.2). Disclosed on the event of SIHH 2019, the ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ collection comprises of pink or white gold (jewel set interestingly) restricted releases showing elite hand-applied decoration.

The pyramid etching decorating the development of these restricted version watches is propelled by Ferdinand Berthoud’s cosmic pocket observe No. 3, a watch collected and changed in Paris in 1806 by his understudy, Jean Martin. (This pocket watch is presently important for the L.U.CEUM collection set up by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in Fleurier). The pyramid adornment is applied to the gold extensions and is engraved altogether by hand. An imperceptibly screwed cartouche bears the sign “Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre Suisse 45 rubis“. The presentation caseback offers an unobstructed perspective on the development that is created and completed to a level that is only sometimes seen. The outcome is particular and entrancing to behold.

Turning the watch over, the hand-engraved patinated gold dial is no less dynamite. Each dial is fastidiously hand-grained with a graver and afterward got done with a rocker to make shining reflections. The anglage of the chamfers outlining the openings cut into the dial are slanted flawlessly. The subtitle ‘haut/bas’ (up/down) for the force save and ‘Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre, Val-de-Travers (the valley where the brand’s workshop is based), Suisse’ is trailed by the individual restricted release number.

A detail that is likewise roused by the Ferdinand Berthoud’s cosmic pocket observe No. 3, the hands of the pink gold rendition are blued gold for the hours, the minutes and the force save sign, and, blued bronze for the breadth seconds hand. For the white gold restricted release, these are dark nickel-plated gold and bronze.

As with past adaptations of the Chronomètre FB1, the octagonal case estimates 44mm x 13mm and is motivated by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine timekeepers. Interestingly, the pink gold case is made solely in this metal with no between haul embed in an alternate material. The white gold form is jewel set, with loaf precious stones embellishing the crown and case flanks, rather than the windows utilized for past versions.

Inside, the radiant type FB-T.FC3 highlights a column development, the exemplary design utilized in marine chronometers. All parts are fitted in the middle of two plates protected along with columns, rather than having a plate and extensions screwed firmly together. For improved accuracy, it is controlled by a larger than average tourbillon driven by a suspended fusée-and-chain system. The last serves to convey consistent power to the escapement all through the running season of the development. The force hold pointer depends on a ruby-roller laying on a versatile going here and there, to show a precise estimation. The barrel is fitted with a Maltese cross stop-work to forestall overwinding. From a specialized point of view, the type FB-T.FC3 comprises no less than 1,119 sections. It runs at 21,600 vibrations each hour with a 53-hour power hold. The accuracy of every development is ensured by the COSC.

The Ferdinand Berthoud ‘Oeuvre d’Or’ collection comprises of two restricted and numbered releases of five watches. Cost is set at CHF 282,500 for the white gold jewel set variant and CHF 258,000 for the pink gold adaptation. More subtleties on  www.ferdinandberthoud.ch .