As a purveyor to imperial customers around the world of the most stunningly enlivened timekeepers, repeaters and automata, Pierre Jaquet Droz comprehended the significance of establishing a dynamite first connection, both precisely and stylishly. Pushing ahead 300 years as expected, the brand actually puts tremendous accentuation on distinctive abilities and has its own personal Ateliers d’Art workshop in the La Chaux-de-Fonds. The furthest down the line treats to rise up out of the workshop are these his and hers models improved with Grand Feu enamel and sparkling paillonné themes: the ‘Fleur de Lys’ Grande Seconde Paillonné and the ladies’ ‘Fleur de Vie’ Petite Heure Minute Paillonné, both restricted to eight pieces.
Since 2011, the Ateliers d’Art have sharpened hereditary abilities and creative procedures to keep up the soul of Jaquet Droz alive. Abilities like smaller than normal artistic creation, chiseling, etching and all orders of enameling (champlevé, Grand Feu cloisonné, plique a jour, grisaille, Geneva method, paillonné) are utilized to design the humble materials offered by a dial. In spite of progress on such countless fronts, enameling is as whimsical a workmanship as it generally has been. Enameling, which is the way toward combining layers of ground glass onto metal utilizing an oven, is nearer to speculative chemistry than a science since so numerous things can turn out badly during the different firings: breaking, bubbles framing on a superficial level, contracting, dust particles destroying the enamel, etc.
The dials of both these models are beautified with sensitive flower themes, the bigger model with ‘Fleur de Lys’ (an image used to address French sovereignty) and the more modest women’s model with a ‘Fleur de Vie’ design (a sacrosanct mathematical image of life composed of covering circles utilizing the brilliant proportion). Prior to continuing to the specialty of paillonné enameling, the initial step includes the etching of a sunray design straightforwardly on to the gold dial utilizing guillochage. When the example has been hand-engraved, it is covered with many a layer of blue enamel and then terminated at a high temperature in the oven as the Grand Feu method directs. The dial is currently prepared for the considerably really demanding specialty of paillonné enameling, which includes the utilization of slender leaves of gold or silver to make surface and light and fixing them from the components with clear enamel.
The word paillonné gets from the small metallic paillons – the cut-out metallic pieces – that are clung to the enamel surface to make the theme. For this situation, each small gold paillon is cut from a slender sheet of gold leaf and applied by hand with the guide of a magnifying lens. To remove the individual shapes from the meager sheet of gold, the craftsman depends on an instrument with the ideal shape at its tip and delicately pounds the top of the apparatus to separate the shape from the gold sheet.
Some craftsmans concede that they need to hold their breath while applying the little shards of metal to consistent their hand. When the plan is prepared, the surface is blessed to receive another layer of clear enamel and terminated. This clear layer of enamel shields the dial from harming light and outside components exemplifying the extraordinary blue shade of the enamel and the radiance of the gold paillons for quite a long time to come.
Fleur de Lys Grande Seconde Paillonné
The foundation assortment at Jaquet Droz, the Grande Seconde gets the VIP treatment in this staggering 18k red gold Grand Feu blue enamel and paillonné model finished with a fleur de lys theme. Described by the rich figure-eight plan of this assortment, the top dial shows the hours and minutes with Roman numerals while the lower and bigger dial at the base is committed to the (enormous) seconds. The trademark helter-skelter show is set against a silver opaline dial and applied to the dial in a gold edge. The case estimates 43mm and is joined to the wrist with a handmade blue crocodile tie and a 18k red gold ardillon clasp. A sapphire gem caseback uncovers the programmed development with its 18k red gold wavering weight and rich finishes.
Quick facts: 43mm breadth – 18k red gold, cleaned – 30m water-obstruction – blue Grand Feu and paillonné enamel dial – silver opaline sub-dials – type 2663.P, programmed – 28,800vph – 68h force save – silicon balance spring and bed horns – gold rotor – ref. J003033437 – restricted to 8 pieces – CHF 43,200
Fleur de Vie Petite Heure Minute Paillonné
This ladies’ 35mm model is housed in a 18k red gold case with an amazing setting of 232 jewels on the bezel, carries and flanks of the case. Like the bigger model, the dial has been blessed to receive blue Grand Feu enamel and a fleur de strive design made with gold paillonné enamel. The unbalanced hours and minutes counter is produced using white mother-of-pearl and is set inside a red gold appliqué and applied to the dial at 12 o’clock. Outfitted with a programmed development with a comfortable 68-hour power save, the type can be seen through the sapphire caseback alongside its refined completions and red gold swaying weight. The watch is given a coordinating blue gator lash with a red gold ardillon buckle.
Quick facts: 35mm width – 18k red gold, cleaned – 232 jewels (1.23 carats) – 30m water-safe – blue Grand Feu and paillonné enamel dial – white mother-of-pearl applied dial for quite a long time – type 2653.P, programmed – 28,800vph – 68h force hold – silicon balance spring and bed horns – gold rotor – ref. J005003244 – restricted to 8 pieces – CHF 45,900
More subtleties at www.jaquet-droz.com .