We’ve said it as of now and we’ll most likely say it once more, however Longines is ablaze with regards to its “Heritage” assortment, with numerous attractive, exceptionally alluring vintage-motivated watches dispatched in the recent years. Consider the Heritage Classic Sector Dial , the as of late redid Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 or the Heritage Military RAF . Among these advanced models enlivened by chronicled pieces, there was one that truly grabbed our eye: the Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph. Also, today we give it some wrist time.
Presented recently alongside a little seconds variant , the Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph is, as you would have speculated, an advanced re-release of a verifiable Longines watch. Established in 1832, Longines is probably the most seasoned brand of the Swiss watch industry still dynamic today. All things considered, you can envision that its heritage assortment is huge and comprises a massive wellspring of motivation for the present architects. There are innumerable captivating watches delivered during the brilliant period of watchmaking – 1940s to 1960s – that merit some consideration at Longines. One of them is a chronograph from 1943 with a classic bi-compax format and two-tone dial, regular of the era.
Longines has as of late reissued a few notable models in an exceptionally devoted manner. Where a few brands go to more seasoned models as motivation for present day watches, augmented and furnished with current highlights (like a date), Longines will in general be more exact in its re-versions restricting its mediation to expanded case widths and contemporary developments. However, with regards to case plan and dial format, the brand frequently holds all the credits of the memorable watches. Such is the situation with the new Tuxedo Chronograph.
The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph
Let’s come to the heart of the matter: case, dial, format, hands, textual styles, colours… This new Tux’ watch is practically indistinguishable from the 1943 adaptation. Also, indeed, it makes for a really attractive watch.
The instance of the Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph gauges a generally sensible 40mm measurement, which is unquestionably bigger than the first 1943 watch however remains genuinely compact by current principles. Another significant component concerns the drags, which are pleasantly bended and not very long – something that can be tricky on some of Longines’ watches. Here, the 40mm breadth and the ergonomic carries make for a watch that sits well on the wrist, with enough presence yet additionally a specific regard for vintage codes. The tallness is about 13.5mm, not explicitly flimsy however expected for a programmed chronograph.
The state of the 1943 watch has likewise been regarded; the case has an ordinary coin-edge, a Calatrava-like plan with a level ventured bezel and an exceptionally domed box-molded sapphire gem on top. The surfaces are for the most part cleaned, with brushed accents on the edges of the bezel. The crown has a precious stone profile close to the case and the pushers are adjusted square shapes, following the lines of the case. The entire habillage is enjoyably executed, with a decent sensation of robustness and clean get together. I may have prefered to see more brushed surfaces, to restrain the look a piece, yet this is negligible.
If the instance of the Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph is wonderful, the dial is the thing that gives this watch the greater part of its allure. Above all else, Longines has figured out how to hold the extents practically flawless – generally the situation of the sub-dials – notwithstanding the bigger distance across. Evidence that a specially assembled chronograph module can have the effect. As to dial, everything has been dependably reproduced, short the patina found on the 1943 model, which clarifies the silver shade of the 2020 Tuxedo watch. Textual styles, tracks, colors, finishings… The work done by Longines here is fairly great and results in a heavenly dial.
The silver opaline surface with a somewhat grained surface of the dial includes a dark hour section ring with stylised and printed Art Deco Arabic numerals. The dial is outlined by a blue tachymeter scale, again loyally repeated. The somewhat recessed chronograph sub-dials have a cautious concentric example and are outlined by a metallic rib making decent reflections and a feeling of depth.
Hours and minutes are shown by cleaned silver hands, with a leaf profile. Their execution is very noteworthy, with an inclined focal standard – a detail for some however one that truly got my attention. Different hands – for the focal seconds and the sub-dials – are blued steel and hold the state of the recorded model. The lone significant distinction concerns the switched position of the little seconds and 30-minute counters. More than the admiration of the first look and the excellence of the actual dial, what shocked me more than anything is the real execution, brimming with details.
Under the strong steel caseback is a natural development, the type L895 (likewise named ETA A31.L21). In light of a period just programmed ETA type, this development is outfitted with a reason fabricated bi-compax chronograph module made by ETA for Longines Heritage watches – the space between the sub-dials is explicit. Additionally, while the base engineering is natural (ETA 2892), it has been redesigned with an enemy of attractive silicon hairspring (still with a 4Hz recurrence) and a force save of 54 hours (rather than 48 hours).
In all decency, the plan of the new Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph is right on target, with the perfect measure of retro components, without falling into the “faux-vintage” embellishment we here and there experience. Additionally, Longines has perceived that such watches ought to have a no-date show, and this Tux’ is no special case for the standard. Unquestionably, one could contend that the brand doesn’t face challenges and has reused a current plan. Certainly, yet when done in a particularly charming way, there isn’t anything to complain about a top notch vintage-motivated model. Without a doubt, while the case is bigger than the first, Longines built up certain stunts to hold unique extents, for example, meager casebands to maintain a strategic distance from visual thickness or an explicitly evolved module to keep the sub-dial dividing intact.
Also, the form quality and the meticulousness are very amazing – generally on the dial – considering the sticker price. For under EUR 3,000 you have a watch with a straightforward yet strong and all around collected case, a development with a few specialized focal points over the competition and a dial/hand combo that might have been accomplished for a watch in a lot greater cost range. Out and out, quite possibly the most attractive “accessible” retro-styled watches of the year.
Availability and Price
The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo Chronograph (Ref. L2.8188.8.131.52) will be delivered in the lasting assortment (not restricted) and will before long be accessible at retailers – careful date not affirmed at this point, expect Q4 2020. It will be estimated at EUR 2,880, CHF 2,850 or USD 3,000.
More subtleties at longines.com .