Somewhere in the middle of the intense Bauhaus interpretation of the Regulator with Alain Silberstein and the more exemplary regulator configuration in the brand’s Excellence collection lies this collaboration with Eric Giroud. First introduced at Baselworld 2019 – and the principal collaboration piece with an outside designer – Eric Giroud’s redesigned Excellence Regulator denotes another direction for the brand. By accepting an exemplary regulator format and putting it in the hands of a contemporary designer, Louis Erard demonstrates that what’s old can be new again.
Watch designer Eric Giroud meets Louis Erard
Eric Giroud is a multi-faceted designer. From his underlying engineering studio to visual depiction, bundling and item design, Giroud got a desire for watches in 1997 and has never thought back. Engineering has consistently assumed a conspicuous part in his designs. “To be an architect,” says Giroud, “is to become a close acquaintence with constraints“. What’s more, if there is one area where constraints are the standard, it is watchmaking. From MB&F to the Harry Winston Opus 9 edition, from Vacheron Constantin to Manufacture Royale, Giroud’s designs are notable in the watchmaking scene and his profession is dabbed with numerous honors, incorporating his most recent collaboration with MB&F which got the prize for the Ladies’ Complication at GPHG 2019 .
Louis Erard was initially established in 1929 and its first watch created in 1931. In 2003, the name was purchased by Swiss financial backers and the brand migrated from La Chaux-de-Fonds to Le Noirmont, in the Jura. The thought was to deliver refined watches with moderate costs and Louis Erard built up its first in-house module with Soprod in 2009. With an arrangement of straightforward 3-hand dress watches to chronographs and skeletonised models, Louis Erard chose to contact contemporary craftsman Alain Silberstein and watch designer Eric Giroud to infuse new life into its iconic Excellence Regulator.
Taking the Regulator show into the 21st century
To date, there are three Regulator models in the Excellence collection with fundamentally unique personalities: the first exemplary interpretation with Roman numerals and blued hands; the imaginative Alain Silberstein Regulator with lively squiggly hands and essential tones; and this strongly contemporary and moderate collaboration with designer Eric Giroud.
Although regulator tickers bit by bit blurred into neglect, they were initially evolved during the 18th century as expert timekeepers to offer the most precise time accessible around then (heartbroken about that). The particular element of regulators was the separation of minutes, hours and seconds. The minutes turned into the genuine protagonists of the dial read with a huge compass hand, while the hours and seconds were normally consigned to more modest sub-dials, with every one of the three hands working off various components. The engaging format of regulator tickers, with the noticeable minutes track and two sub-dials for the secondary function of the hours and running seconds, is creeping its way back into watchmaking of late. Chronoswiss has made regulator-style dials its image forte and even heavyweights like Patek Philippe have honored the style .
Case and dial
The early introduction Eric Giroud’s Regulator is one of restraint and polish with an overwhelming portion of ‘now’. Visited in three iterations, the case estimates 42mm and is accessible in cleaned tempered steel for the white and blue models and dark PVD-covered steel for the dark dial. A generally straightforward 3-section case with fixed caseback, straight hauls and a dainty bezel, the genuine protagonist of the watch is the dial.
A track on the fringe of the dial shows the immeasurably significant minutes and is perused with a silver-shaded hand reaching out from the focal point of the dial. The hours, set in the bigger sub-dial under 12 o’clock, include three very “designer” Roman numerals at XII, III and IX and are likewise demonstrated with a silver hand. Dissimilar to the two different models in the Excellence Regulator family, the sub-dials don’t contact and the more modest running seconds is isolated from the hours and sits in the lower half of the dial. The vertical hub framed by position of the three cleaned nickel hands, equidistantly isolated and lessening in size as indicated by their functionality (m, h, s), gives a strong feeling of balance and order.
The words Regulateur are imprinted in the inside of the little seconds counter and the brand name Louis Erard shows up on the left, at 9 o’clock, outwardly compensating the presence of a date window at 3 o’clock. The silver casing of the adjusted date window coordinates the wide range of various silver markings on the beat up models. The ivory white dial includes a similar silver edge on the date window however the sub-dials and inscriptions are a pale shade of dark. To upgrade intelligibility, the date window is covered with against intelligent amplifying glass.
The Excellence Regulator runs on a programmed Sellita SW200-1 type with a Dubois Depraz 14072 complication. With a recurrence of 28,800vph or 4Hz, the development can keep the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions running for around 38 hours. This development, notable and effectively functional, permits keeping the cost generally controlled and to give precision and reliability.
You can truly feel the hand of its producer and the contemporary design language of this piece. In Eric Giroud’s hands, an exemplary regulator design abruptly becomes contemporary and locks in. I need to concede that when I originally saw it I thought it was a topsy turvy Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde and the sub-dials helped me to remember Ressence watches. Yet, this is totally mentioned in the most complimentary fashion. Personally, the ivory white dial takes the cake. Its quiet moderation and rich composition emanate a tranquil Zen vibe. The date window, all things considered, as consistently a questionable decision, particularly in this refined relaxed setting.
Availability and price
All three models are restricted editions of 178 pieces and come with coordinating cowhide ties and collapsing fastens. As indicated by the brand, the imagery of the number 178, which implies “strong together” addresses the organization with Eric Giroud. Retail cost for the steel versions is CHF 2,700 and CHF 2,800 for the dark PVD model. More subtleties at montres-louiserard.ch .