When it was introduced back in March 2019, the MB&F LM FlyingT was positioned by the brand as a women’s watch – in fact, the first watch entirely dedicated to women by MB&F. Since the debut editions were completely cleared with precious stones, it by one way or another made sense… But, as Rebecca said in her survey of this watch, “the baguette-set model could chip away at a man’s wrist“, something that I just partially second. The general concept talked to me, so did the restrained measurements and the vertical movement with flying tourbillon. But not the precious stones. Indeed, issue tackled, as today MB&F is introducing the LM FlyingT Red Gold and Platinum editions, without jewels, making it the perfect unisex option for the brand.
The way this MB&F LM FlyingT was gotten was truly enthusiastic, by both female and manly crowds. Women pointed out the non-comprising look, truly faithful to the spirit of Max Büsser and his companions, and the fact that it wasn’t just a reduced manly model cleared with precious stones, but a watch planned from scratch, its movement notwithstanding. The manly crowd by one way or another delighted in the look, the proportions and the fascinating three-dimensional vertical architecture of the flying tourbillon movement (a first for MB&F), but not such a lot of the stones on the dial and/or the bezel. I was part of that gathering, by one way or another envisioning what this watch could look like without the jewels. (See beneath the debut edition with diamonds.)
I love MB&F watches, whether the LM or HM collections. They are intense, different, totally insane in terms of plan but additionally considerably more mature than their spaceship or steampunk look would suggest. In any case, most of them are enormous – or extremely huge on account of some HM watches. I know it’s part of the concept, but a 44mm piece is possibly too much for my 16.5cm wrist – which is the reason I’ve consistently adored the LM101 and its 40mm case . And taking a gander at the MB&F LM FlyingT made me – and most likely multiple watch enthusiasts – think about having a “de-diamonded” form. The plan of this watch, an evolution first utilized in this context and later utilized by the LM Thunderdome , was likewise pleasant. It appears to be that we were not the lone ones to want for a less female rendition, as MB&F presents today the LM FlyingT Red Gold and Platinum, presently without jewels (almost).
These new forms in the LM FlyingT collection stay aware of the novel plan introduced on the women’s models. The case denoted an evolution compared to the LM1 or LM Perpetual watches, with less points, more bends, hauls streaming into the caseband and a lot thinner bezel. This new plan language felt rather ladylike at first but demonstrated quite apropos in the context of a bigger watch, with the Thunderdome . Compared to the debut cleared model, no evolution here, with still similar lines and proportions, which means a sensible but not little 38.5mm diameter – suitable for most wrists, whatever the sexual orientation. The case is accessible in 18k red gold (Night edition) or 950 platinum (Day edition).
Faithful to all the watches in the LM collection, the FlyingT features an exceptionally domed sapphire crystal over the dial – much more momentous here in light of the more modest diameter. With its 20mm height, don’t expect the case to stow away under a sleeve – but that’s not the point of this watch at any rate. This crystal is a protective vault over the sculptural kinetic ballet, thanks to a three-dimensional vertical movement and a sub-dial that shows the time on a 50° vertically tilted hub. As should be obvious, just one glittering connection to their jewel armored predecessors stays: at the top of the flying tourbillon sits a solitary 0.035-carat stone that rotates in time with the fundamental system. The dial – in fact, the movement’s principle plate – is guilloché and accessible in dark (combined with red gold) or in blue (combined with platinum).
The extraordinary movement. which was considered and created in-house by MB&F, shows the typical 3D effect of the brand. The flat section of the movement is dedicated to the stockpile and storage of energy. The LM FlyingT is in fact an automatic watch, twisted by a rotor looking like a three-dimensional red-gold sun with sculpted beams. This watch is likewise amazing, with 100h of force save. Then comes the vertical part of the movement, which incorporates the stuff train and the regulating organ – all stacked on a vertical pivot, with the flying tourbillon on top of the movement, rotating once consistently. As a tribute to other individuals from the LM collection, the confine of the tourbillon mirrors the curves that normally hold the equilibrium wheel.
Now comes the question of the positioning of this watch? Is it still a women’s watch? Would it be able to become an alternative for men? The appropriate response is indeed, in both cases. First, not all women love precious stones on their watches – in fact, I know numerous more youthful women who favor manly watches over outdated, botanical/jewel timepieces. Here, MB&F proposes a toned-down rendition that is more discreet and less “girly”.
Then, and particularly true for the platinum variant with its virus shading plan, I think this watch will satisfy a manly crowd who lean toward more modest watches, without compromising on the standard MB&F plan and technical franticness. It is a watch that still creates an impact and, regardless of whether it feels a bit more elegant than a LM1 for instance, still retains all the desired Büsser codes.
Price and availability
These new editions of the MB&F LM FlyingT are each limited to 18 pieces, presently accessible at retailers. They will be estimated at CHF 98,000 – USD 105,000 – EUR 91,000 (all excl. taxes) for the red gold edition and CHF 108,000 – USD 116,000 – EUR 100,000 (all excl. taxes) for the platinum edition. More details at www.mbandf.com .