Now that the SIHH 2019 is finished, the time has come to plunk down and take a more critical glance at the dozens of watches that were presented . Overall, it has been a decent year as far as oddities – probably not the best release ever, but rather still, there were some lovely fascinating things to see, especially in the field of complications. This also means that the “entry-level” or “affordable” categories have been marginally failed to remember by certain brands. After all, SIHH means Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. Accordingly, you won’t be astonished to see that our determination of the 10 best watches of the show is centered around “high-end” models.
Note: this determination is based on an agreement among the MONOCHROME team. It mirrors our inclinations. In the event that you have an alternate view on what could be the best watches of the SIHH 2019, don’t hesitate to share them in the comment segment at the finish of this article.
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date
Why? Simply because it is much cleverer than simply a date added to the Zeitwerk. One could think it is a basic indication of the current date, yet in fact, because of the complex display of the Zeitwerk, it required resourcefulness and mechanical skill. The date had to be situated around the dial, around all the plates that are utilized to display the time. Along these lines, the date is appeared on a peripheral sapphire plate with the current date featured in red. The magic appears at 12 PM when all the indications hop simultaneously and instantaneously. Different enhancements are to be noticed: a pusher to advance the hours (essentially because the display is presently on 24h and would require way such a large number of turns of the crown) and another development with multiplied force save. The style remains unadulterated Zeitwerk, and that’s simply great. More details here .
Quick Facts: 44.2mm diameter x 12.3mm stature – 18k white gold – caliber L043.8, in-house – 72h power hold – constant power escapement – hopping hours, bouncing minutes, small seconds, date, power save indicator – reference 148.038 – EUR 89,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Salmon Dial
Why? Because it is a Jumbo RO with a salmon dial… That was sufficient to have the gathering community bouncing all over. In any case, (there had to be a however), there are a couple of things to note. As beautiful as this Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin salmon dial 15202BC is, it will remain a dream for many. To begin with, it is made of white gold and not stainless steel – meaning that it is both rather heavy and fairly costly. At that point, Audemars Piguet, already very reluctant to deliver large quantities of the Jumbo (whatever the material), has decided to create just 75 bits of this watch (at least for 2019, as it isn’t a restricted release anymore yet a store select). Be that as it may, on the whole fairness, what a heavenly release of an already sublime watch.
Quick Facts: 39mm diameter x 8mm stature – 18k white gold case and bracelet – salmon-shaded “petite tapisserie” guilloché dial – caliber 2121 ultra-thin – hours, minutes, date – reference 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01 – CHF 55,000 – Boutique release just, 75 pieces in 2019
Bovet Récital 21 Perpetual Calendar
Why? Because it is both elegant, original and complex. To put it plainly, it summarizes everything Bovet is about. Certainly less ostentatious than the Grand Recital 22 that won the GPHG 2018 , this new Récital 21 is by and by fascinating. Design-wise, the classical codes of Bovet are utilized in a more unobtrusive way. Mechanically-speaking, we have an in-house development with a 5-day power save and a perpetual calendar, displayed with hopping plates (day, month, year) and a retrograde date cunningly integrated around the hours/minutes sub-dial. A really elegant piece with a remarkable style.
Quick Facts: 44.4mm diameter x 15.5mm stature – available in red gold or titanium – calibre 113DM05-QPR in-house – hours, minutes, sub-seconds, day, retrograde date, month, leap year, and force hold – reference R210001 – cost upon request
Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune
Why? Because it was totally startling, complex, at this point unadulterated Hermès and beautiful. Hermès has a thing for original displays however this L’Heure De La Lune drives the idea a lot further. For this watch, a patented module had been created with two sub-dials acting like satellites, displaying the time and the date. While rotating, these sub-dials also partially hide the moons depicted on the lower (fixed) part of the dial, in this manner indicating the age of the Moon. And obviously, the two sub-dials remain straight whatever their situation on the dial. The Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is available in two space-roused forms: aventurine and shooting star. A poetical take on the moon phase complication.
Quick Facts: 43mm diameter – 18k white gold case – calibre Hermès H1837, automatic – hours, minute, date, moon phase (northern and southern half of the globe) – available with aventurine or shooting star dial, restricted to 100 pieces each – EUR 23,000
IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph TOP GUN Ceratanium
Why? Because it is both innovative and conservative. Innovative because of the utilization of a brand new material, Ceratanium, which combines the stun resistance and gentility of titanium with the properties of black ceramic, meaning a scratch-resistant surface and a black shading that won’t fade. It is conservative, in a pleasant way. With the combination of its toolish aspect, its emphasis on resistance and neatness, the cool Double-Chronograph (split-seconds) complication, it heralds a re-visitation of real instrument watches at IWC. The commendable beneficiary to the ref. 3711 and 3705, in a modernized however faithful adaptation. More details here .
Quick Facts: 44mm diameter x 16.8mm stature – black Ceratanium case – caliber 79230 (Valjoux based with in-house module) – automatic slipt-seconds chronograph – reference IW371815 – EUR 15,400
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster PerpetuAl
Why? Because it’s probably the most complex watch divulged at the SIHH 2019. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetual (sorry for the name) features a Gyrotourbillon (the brand’s name for a multi-axis tourbillon), a constant-force remontoir d’égalité, a Westminster minute repeater with catapult hammers and square cross-segment, blued gongs attached to the sapphire and a perpetual calendar with a hopping date. And in addition to the fact that it is ultra-complex, yet it is also sublimely executed/decorated and overall, reasonably dimensioned. The back reveals an astonishing degree of detail. Two renditions are available, one with a silver-grained dial and one with an enameled blue dial (both restricted to 18 pieces). As you can expect, this doesn’t come cheap.
Quick Facts: 43mm diameter x 14.08mm stature – 18k white gold case – calibre 184, in-house – power save 52 hours – 126 gems – hours, minutes, perpetual calendar and Gyrotourbillon, minute repeater with Westminster tolls – reference Q52534E1 and Q5253420 – EUR 800,000
Laurent Ferrier Bridge One
Why? Because it is a brand new design for Laurent Ferrier, which is still vintage yet with a lot bolder take on the brand’s codes. The Laurent Ferrier Bridge One is all about mastering shapes and features a rectangular case that isn’t that rectangular and a combination of endless concave and curved surfaces. More angular, more daring than the past creations yet refined and understated. Underneath the domed crystal and the white enamel dial is a shaped development, based on the same architecture as the Annual Calendar, yet altogether redesigned to match the case’s shape. And on the wrist… Well, it is a significant encounter (we’ll come back to this model soon).
Quick Facts: 30mm diameter x 44mm tall – stainless steel case (also available in red gold) – white enamel Grand Feu dial – caliber LF107.01, proprietary – hours and minutes – also available with a slate gray dial and a small seconds – CHF 37,000 (white enamel dial, stainless steel case)
Ressence Type 2 e-Crown (final version)
Why? Because we usually ban everything that has a battery or chips on MONOCHROME… Except for this watch. The Ressence Type 2 e-Crown , which was introduced in its final form at SIHH 2019, might have some hardware inside and telephone network yet these are not meddling in the movement of the display module, which is as yet determined by a mechanical, automatic development. The beauty of Type 2 is that it utilizes gadgets to make a mechanical watch cleverer, by replacing the crown and making sure your watch is always on schedule, at the privilege time. Ressence replaces the crown’s capacity with an automated set-up framework. It automatically sets and adjusts your mechanical watch to the ideal time, rendering the crown outdated. And when the watch is in rest mode, the barrel is quit, meaning that when the watch is “woken up” after weeks, it actually has power, it works immediately and automatically readjusts to the privilege time… Impressive.
Quick Facts: 45mm x 12mm – Grade 5 Titanium with anthracite PVD coating – patented ROCS 2 Ressence Orbital Convex System – driven continuously axle of a specially modified 2892/A caliber – second time region, mechanical force saver, self-setting, time observing via the e-crown module, self-controlled by photovoltaic cells – CHF 42,500 (excl. taxes)
Ulysse Nardin Freak X
Why? Because the emblematic Freak display has never been so affordable (relatively speaking). Brought into the world in 2001, the Freak became a laboratory for UN and became the main watch to be commercialized with silicon parts. Its display comprises of a baguette-shaped flying carrousel that indicates the minutes and a plate underneath for the hours. This year, UN attaches the signature carrousel on a more standard automatic development, adjusted by a crown (and not via the caseback), allowing for the vast majority of the Freak coolness at half the cost of the past releases. And most awesome aspect all, it is also outstanding amongst other looking Freak watches at any point created. And that balance wheel… How cool is that balance wheel!
Quick Facts: 43mm diameter – titanium or rose gold or Carbonium – caliber UN-230, in-house – open flying carousel baguette development rotating around its own axis – selective central oscillator with large diameter – as of EUR 21,000 (titanium versions)
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar
Why? Because it is hyper-shrewd, innovative and addresses one of the main issues of a perpetual calendar in a mechanically amazing way. The main issue with a QP is setting the watch. A perpetual calendar ought to be perpetual, for its indication as well as for its timekeeping part. In any case, a mechanical watch has a restricted force save and will, irremediably, stop. The arrangement found by Vacheron and its Twin-Beat Perpetual Calendar is to have two regulating organs and two working modes. At the point when worn, the watch runs on a 5Hz recurrence with 4 days of force hold. When put away, press the catch at 8 and engage the “Standby Mode” which switches the regulating organ and runs on a 1.2Hz recurrence, allowing for a staggering 65-day power hold – enough to stay up with the latest. And if that was adequately not, the execution is modern, very good quality, reasonably measured and visually superb.
Quick Facts: 42mm diameter x 12.3mm thick – 950 platinum case – caliber 3610 QP with two regulating organs – 5Hz (36,000vph) or 1.2Hz (8,640vph) – hours, minutes, instantaneous perpetual calendar, power hold and recurrence mode – EUR 210,000