The watches delivered by Ferdinand Berthoud (Chopard’s sister, very good quality brand) are intriguing and portray noteworthy mechanics and finishings. At the SIHH 2019, the brand presented a restrictive restricted release watch, named the Chronomètre FB1 “Oeuvre d’Or” . As a component of Mexico City SIAR 2019 Salon, the brand presents another adaptation of this watch with a novel strong white gold dial – still engraved, completed and patinated by hand.
Since its resurrection in 2016, with the advanced wristwatch Chronomètre FB1, Ferdinand Berthoud has shown its authority of all watchmaking methods, regardless of whether for the improvement of its watches or the specialized parts of its developments. The FB1 is the fantasy of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-President of Chopard, and an accolade for probably the best watchmaker. In that capacity, the fundamental focal point of the watches to bear his name are chronometry, accuracy and exclusivity.
An advancement of the watches introduced at SIHH 2019, this new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB1 “Oeuvre d’Or” is introduced at the SIAR 2019 and offered in a restricted release of five pieces. The most exceptional part of these watches is to be seen on the dials, as this rendition includes a hand-engraved and patinated strong gold dial. First introduced in rose gold, the new restricted version currently includes untreated, normal white gold dials, offering a warm tone. Each dial is carefully hand-grained with a graver and afterward got done with a rocker to make sparkling reflections. The anglage of the chamfers outlining the openings cut into the dial are angled flawlessly and rhodium-plated for contrast. ‘Ferdinand Berthoud, Chronomètre, Val-de-Travers (the valley where the brand’s workshop is based), Suisse’ is engraved on the dial, trailed by the individual restricted version number.
As for the instance of these new Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB-1 “Oeuvre d’Or”, the brand selected 18k rose gold all finished. The 44mm distance across case, with its unmistakable octagonal shape (motivated by Ferdinand Berthoud’s marine tickers), highlights gold brushed between haul modules and a gold crown. The sides of the case are accentuated by different sapphire windows, offering a perspective on the movement’s components, for example, the fusée and the chain.
Inside, the superb type FB-T.FC3 highlights a column development, the exemplary design utilized in marine chronometers. All parts are fitted in the middle of two plates protected along with columns, rather than having a plate and scaffolds screwed firmly together. For improved accuracy, it is controlled by a curiously large tourbillon driven by a suspended fusée-and-chain component. The last serves to convey steady power to the escapement all through the running season of the development. The force hold marker depends on a ruby-roller laying on a versatile going all over, to show an exact estimation. The barrel is fitted with a Maltese cross stop-work to forestall overwinding. From a specialized point of view, the type FB-T.FC3 comprises no less than 1,119 sections. It runs at 21,600 vibrations each hour with a 53-hour power save. The exactness of every development is ensured by the COSC.
The development is wonderfully improved, with a hand-applied pyramid etching adorning the scaffolds – a beautification propelled by Ferdinand Berthoud’s cosmic pocket observe No. 3, a watch collected and changed in Paris in 1806 by his understudy, Jean Martin. All the parts are done by hand, including straight graining, slopes, sharp points and more techniques.
The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB-1 “Oeuvre d’Or” with white gold dial is worn on an earthy colored moved edge gator calfskin tie. It is a restricted version of five pieces, valued at CHF 263,500. More subtleties at www.ferdinandberthoud.ch .