Romain Gauthier is, without question, one of the top watchmakers with regards to embellishment – check this and you’ll get why. His watches are however precisely intriguing as they seem to be uncommon, and his degree of ability in the completing of a development – in the customary “Vallée de Joux” style – is undeniable. Delectable material for prepared gatherers. Today, the man uncovers his most recent watch, in light of the (evidently) straightforward Prestige HMS, and presents his first watch made in stainless steel. Don’t believe that since it is in steel any corners have been cut; the execution of the dial and the completions on the development demonstrate something else. Meet the HMS Stainless Steel and Meteorite.
The Prestige HMS is Romain Gauthier’s (magnificent) vision of a period just watch. Unquestionably not the most energizing of his watches with regards to complications and mechanics – the honor goes to the Logical One – this piece is, notwithstanding, significantly more than simply a period just piece. You may have just seen that there’s a major issue with the case… something missing. First astonishment: there’s no crown on the case. Second shock: turn over the watch and take a gander at the development and you’ll see that a period just capacity doesn’t essentially mean simple watchmaking. The Prestige HMS is an unadulterated connoisseur’s watch. Prudent from the start sight, brimming with subtleties once you take a nearer look.
Already existing in various releases , every one of them with a somewhat opened dial and valuable metal cases, another rendition of the Prestige HMS has recently been revealed: Romain’s first watch made of stainless steel, which additionally turns out to be the principal adaptation of this watch with a shut dial. Furthermore, what a dial it is!
The instance of the HMS Steel is, as demonstrated by its name, made of stainless steel. Combining cleaned and silk completed surfaces, its execution resembles the remainder of the watch: eminent. Or maybe huge on paper (43mm x 12.1mm), the measurements are constricted by the absence of a crown a 3 o’clock and inclining drags. Winding the development and setting the time is done on the converse side, where a level crown is coordinated. Both exquisite and viable consistently. The decision for stainless steel wasn’t just determined by the plan to have an extraordinary piece, however basically to agree with the material utilized for the dial: meteorite, a material with high ferrous content.
The pièce de résistance with respect to the habillage is the meteorite dial. This isn’t a first for the watchmaking business, a long way from it. Nonetheless, Romain Gauthier depends on a strong, thick layer (0.8mm) of meteorite to make this dial – and not a flimsy cut of meteorite fastened on a metal base. The material can really be seen through the movement.
The meteorite used to make the dial is an octahedrite – an iron meteorite – that was found in 1931 at the Henbury cavity field in the Northern Territory of Australia. The meteorite seems as though a genuinely common lump of dark metal until it is exposed to a nitric corrosive treatment that uncovers meeting groups of nickel-iron gem. As you can see on the pictures, the example is complex and the surface purposely finished. The lone treatment applied is an enemy of erosion coating, to guarantee its appearance won’t disintegrate over time.
The show of the HMS is, as its name demonstrates, in view of the signs of the hours, minutes and seconds – every one of them marginally off kilter to give the watch a controlled whimsy. Tracks and markers are painted in white straightforwardly on the meteorite plate, while applied triangles mark the hours. The hands are completely darkened steel for a superior difference over the dim dial. Hour markers and hands are loaded up with radiant material.
Turning the watch over uncovers quite possibly the most amazing developments presently underway. Truly, trust us, Romain Gauthier and his group are in the best five of the Swiss Watchmaking industry with regards to adorning a development. The Calibre 2206 HMS is primarily produced in-house (except a few sections), with signature gears with circular spokes, a bespoke offset wheel with bended arms and adjusted offbeat loads, and S-opening screw heads. The development ticks at 4Hz and flaunts a comfortable 60h force reserve.
Moving to the adornment, this is the place where Gauthier’s skill truly gets communicated. All the parts are done and designed by hand, in the most customary way, despite the fact that the development is current looking. The wheel spokes are inclined with sharp inside points, for instance. The angles are persistently made and cleaned by hand. Their surface is carefully cleaned to get a uniform radiance without even the smallest imperfection. The amazing bercé anglage (the adjusted profile of the inclines) on the bridges is performed by a modest bunch of experts in the business… The patterns in the primary extension reveal ultra-sharp inside points, which must be performed by super-gifted hands. We’re discussing over 60 hours of patient work to complete such a development. For more differentiation and advancement, the extensions are dark NAC-treated and straight grained while the mainplate is hand-frosted.
The Romain Gauthier Prestige HMS Stainless Steel Meteorite will be created in just 10 pieces. It will be valued at CHF 68,000 (before charges). The cost of a genuine handcrafted piece. More subtleties on www.romaingauthier.com .