Having given the Santos new wings in 2018, Cartier grows the top of the line men’s assortment in 2019 with the expansion of a chronograph. Thicker, wider and vastly sportier, the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph has discovered an exquisite answer for supplant the exemplary two-pusher chronograph arrangement with an altered form of its programmed 1904-CH MC type. Introduced in three variants – strong 18k pink gold, steel and yellow gold bezel, and steel with a dark ADLC bezel – we have chosen the sleek pink gold model for our active review.
When Brazilian pilot Santos-Dumont commissioned a watch from his companion Louis Cartier in 1904 that he could wear while steering his plane – and not need to lift his hand from the controls – little did both of these respectable men speculate that the outcome would become quite possibly the most famous and suffering Cartier symbols ever. Described by a square case with noticeable screws, a shape that contradicted the style for round pocket watches, the Santos has stood out forever as the main pilot watch and an antecedent of the gent’s wristwatch. What got going as a bespoke commission went into sequential creation in 1911, with LeCoultre developments, and took off during the 1970s when it was returned to in a wristband piece with screws on the bezel and arm band. Removed from creation in 2016, the Santos returned in 2018 with an invigorated and more shapely case, yet consistently aware of its precursor’s notable traits.
What comes first – the case or the development? On account of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, the superseding worry of the designers has been to regard the smooth shapes and evenness of the notable case, implying that the development, in view of the well known 2012 Caliber de Cartier Chronograph , has been adjusted to move the pushers. Rather than highlighting the standard pair of chronograph pushers on the correct side of the case, the Santos Chronograph includes a watchful rectangular pusher on the left side of the case for the beginning/stop capacities. Effectively mixed up as a monopusher chronograph, the Santos is, truth be told, a two-pusher chronograph with the reset work settled inside the crown and enacted by depressing the cabochon.
The early introduction has to do with the size of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph, presently the greatest sibling in the line-up of Santos watches. Promoted as an ‘Additional Large’, the case estimates 43.3mm x 51.4mm with a thickness of 12.5mm, yet the tenderly bended drags and coordinated wristband/tie constrict its bulkiness. The returned to case state of 2018, with its delicately rounded edges, smooth silk brushed case and cleaned bezel and screws, passes on a prompt feeling of extravagance and you can feel the consoling load of the pink gold. Cartier has a one of a kind capacity to make intriguing case shapes (see here for the latest redoing of the 1906 Tonneau watch ), and even a ‘square’ watch like the Santos comes bursting at the seams with development and differentiating surfaces. I love the unpretentious wave shape on the correct side of the case and the gap it makes to accept the crown and was dazzled by the general smoothness and complex ergonomics of the case. Another enormous in addition to is the 100m water-obstruction of the case.
Immediately unmistakable as a Cartier watch, the dial passes on all the slipped by time data in immaculate style. The square area of the dial has a brushed silver surface differentiating to the snailed and somewhat recessed foundations of the 30-second and 12-hour registers, and the more modest auxiliary seconds and date work at 6 o’clock. Cartier has made an excellent decision in regards to the hands trading the conventional blued-steel hands for thicker, sword formed hands covered with a lot of lume. The trademark minute scale has likewise been moved to the outskirts and the Roman numerals are bolder with regards to the lively character of the watch.
For many, the fuse of type 1904-CH MC was the truly energizing information about this watch and it is a disgrace that the caseback is shut. A similar base development as found in the 2012 Caliber de Cartier Chronograph and the Cartier Tank MC , (automatic section wheel chronograph with little seconds and date is an assembling development delivered by ValFleurier) for the Santos de Cartier chronograph the development has been changed to isolate the chronograph pushers and spot them on independent sides of the case.
One of the benefits of this development, that was made under the management of Carole Forestier, head of development creation at Cartier, is the mallet system to guarantee the chronograph is reset with the perfect measure of power, regardless of how hard or delicate you push. With a recurrence of 28,800vph/4Hz, the watch has a force hold of 48 hours.
Interchangeable tie and wristband adjustment
The rose gold variant of the Santos de Cartier chronograph come with a croc cowhide lash and an intriguing finished elastic tie with screws at one or the other limit of the principal connects to repeat the screws on the bezel. The steel models additionally come with a coordinated metal arm band. All models are outfitted with the brand’s QuickSwitch framework – a fast delivery button that makes changing the tie a snap – and the wristbands come with the SmartLinks alternative that allows you to change the length of the arm band without the need of a screwdriver.
I think Cartier has been amazingly effective at forming the Santos to make an energetic chronograph without forfeiting an inch of its polish. More modest wrists may be overpowered by the case size, however the completions are truly top notch and the inventive blend of calculation and delicate shapes sit perfectly on a bigger wrist. The choice of wider hands, the liberal utilization of lume and the consoling water-obstruction are indispensable highlights for a games watch that actually figures out how to look dressy and très, très Cartier.
The 18k rose gold model we have highlighted in this article will be accessible in April 2019 and retails for USD 24,700. For more data, kindly counsel www.cartier.com .
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph is additionally accessible in steel with Black ADLC-covered bezel and dark elastic lash, just as in steel with yellow gold accents (bezel and screws on the connections) with costs beginning at USD 8,950. Both are captured below.