State of the Industry – Who Does or Doesn’t Have an In-House Chronograph?

If the chronograph is quite possibly the most popular complications, it is also perhaps the most complex sorts of developments to manufacture. In the no so distant past, simply a handful of manufactures had the information or the financial assets to create their own, in-house mechanical chronograph caliber… yet the past 20 years have seen the introduction of a noteworthy number of self-created developments.

During the 1970s, new accurate quartz developments gained popularity and dove the Swiss watch industry into a profound emergency. Sales of mechanical watches declined sharply, creation of mechanical developments was decreased to a stream, and many Swiss watchmakers left business. Apex is a smooth example of how stock and creation capacities were obliterated (and saved by an act of defiance for El Primero – read the historical backdrop of this famous chronograph here ).

Following the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking during the 1980s and 1990s, brands massively put resources into development improvement and creation facilities. At the time, not very many watchmakers were actually creating developments. The majority of the business was sourcing from the same development manufacturers: ETA for industrial developments and a couple of very good quality makers like Frédéric Piguet, Lemania, Zenith or Girard-Perregaux, to name a couple.

To guarantee a steady stock of developments and lift their image, brands started to build up their own mechanical developments. These started with standard 3-hand developments yet soon the requirement for the ruler of complications became apparent. In the late 1990s, just a handful of manufacturers were creating chronograph developments internally. Watch brands for the most part depended on re-appropriated, standardized developments. This was a genuine challenge because building up a chronograph development is no small feat. It was – and still is – regarded as a delegated wonder for a manufacture. Most watchmakers will disclose to you that apart from brief repeater, the chronograph is the most complex development to develop.

Fast forward 20 years and today there is an abundance of in-house chronograph movements.

Of course, there are large development makers like ETA with the omnipresent 7750 or Sellita with the SW500-1 (an alternative to the 7750). There are also smaller companies like La Joux-Perret, Vaucher, Agenhor or Concepto. Peak ledge conveys chronographs to LVMH brands. Also, Dubois-Depraz manufactures chronograph modules that are coupled to mechanical developments – despite the fact that it just introduced an integrated chronograph. Notwithstanding, a large portion of today’s major brands have their own chronograph developments. Here’s a sequence of the in-house chronograph since the late 1990s…

Note: The rundown gathers probably the largest brands that have introduced in-house chronograph developments. There is no official standard for an in-house watch development and the Swiss watchmaking industry is an intricate biological system. Breguet and Blancpain are excluded as Swatch Group acquired Blancpain and Frédéric Piguet in 1992 – Breguet and Lemania in 1999. Frédéric Piguet and Lemania, two conspicuous development makers were integrated into the Blancpain and Breguet manufactures. We have decided to introduce all developments as announced by brands regardless of whether inside gatherings, a few developments present evident similarities. For more information about chronographs, you can read our technical viewpoint here .

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph – 1999

The initial A. Lange & Söhne chronograph of the advanced era is the benchmark for a top of the line chronograph. The Datograph combines everything an idealist wants, including exceptional wrapping up. Among other notable feats, the Datograph incorporates a flyback mechanism, absolutely bouncing minutes and an outsized date.

Quick facts: caliber L951.6 (Dato Up/Down as of 2012) hand-wound chronograph – 30.6mm x 7.9mm – segment haggle grasp – 46 gems – 18,000 vibrations each hour – 60h force reserve

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANORETROGRAPH – 2000

Fast closely following A. Lange & Söhne’s Datograph, Glashütte Original wowed the stage with its PanoRetroGraph, a profoundly complex flyback chronograph complete with a 30-minute retrograde commencement counter furnished with a ring. Eliminating the retrograde and ringing, it would become the eminent and unconventional PanoGraph from 2002.

Quick facts: caliber 61-03 (PanoGraph) hand-wound chronograph – 32.2mm x 7.2mm – section haggle grasp – 41 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 42h force reserve

ROLEX Caliber 4130 – 2000

At Baselworld 2000, Rolex introduced its in-house chronograph development to control the notable Daytona – which had recently depended on an adjusted variant of the Zenith El Primero (named 4030 at Rolex). The 4130 is a benchmark for the powerful, still industrially-made automatic integrated chronograph.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 30.5mm – section haggle grip – 44 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 72h force reserve

JAEGER-LECOULTRE JLC 751 – 2004

This current twin-barrel automatic chronograph runs at 28,800 vibrations each hour for a 65h force hold. It features a segment haggle coupling and was launched inside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Chronograph.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 25.6mm – section haggle grip – 37 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 65h force reserve

IWC 89000 – 2007

Since IWC had since quite a while ago utilized Valjoux-based chronographs, the brand chose to present the 89000 family in 2007. The 89000 is a 30mm flyback integrated chronograph running at 28,800 vibrations each hour, with 68h force save, segment wheel, shaking pinion and Pellaton winding framework. It very well may be combined with various additional capacities (counting perpetual calendar).

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 30mm – section haggle pinion – 40 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 68h force reserve

PIAGET 880P – 2007

Piaget introduced its first in-house chronograph in 2007, with the 880P. This integrated development, with section wheel, will be the base to build up the 883P, the world’s most slender chronograph (until recently).

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 26.8mm – section haggle grip – 35 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 50h force reserve

PANERAI P.2004 – 2008

Presented in 2008, the Panerai P.2004 is a hand-wound, single push-piece chronograph remarkable for its large diameter and because it incorporates three barrels bringing about noteworthy 8-day power save. It depends on a section haggle vertical clutch.

Quick facts: hand-wound chronograph – 30mm – section haggle grip – 29 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 192h force reserve

PATEK PHILIPPE CH 29-535 PS – 2009

In 2005, Patek Philippe introduced a great split-second chronograph, caliber CHF 27-525 PS. Manufactured in-house, the caliber was roused by an old Victorin Piguet Ebauche ref. 5959. The hotly anticipated first current Patek Philippe classic in-house chronograph didn’t make its introduction in a men’s watch yet in a ladies’ watch (reference 7071). The magnificent CH 29-535 PS is a traditional plan with section haggle grasp. It was the first to bear the Patek Seal. It made its masculine introduction in 2010 when Patek introduced the reference 5170, which replaced the reference 5070 based on a Lemania blank.

Quick facts: hand-wound chronograph CH 29-535 PS – 29.6mm – section haggle grip – 33 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 65h force reserve

HUBLOT UNICO – 2009

Presented in 2009, the Hublot Unico stands out with its chronograph mechanism situated dial side. It is currently intended to fit with the vibe of Hublot watches however its architecture is traditional.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph HUB 1242 – 30mm – segment haggle grip – 38 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 72h force reserve

BREITLING B01 – 2009

Unveiled in 2009, the Breitling B01 is currently planned with segment haggle grip. The B01 caliber is presently shared with Tudor watches and utilized in the Black Bay Chronograph.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph Breitling B01 – 30mm – segment haggle grasp – 47 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 70h force reserve

TAG HEUER Caliber HEUER 01 – 2009

The in-house label of TAG’s caliber 1887 generated discussion when it was presented because it was based on a Seiko development – that was manufactured internally by TAG Heuer, however. It became the Heuer 01 when the new Carrera assortment was presented. It was continued in 2013 by the caliber 1969/CH-80, which was this time a real in-house chronograph development (improvement included).

Quick facts: automatic chronograph caliber 1887 or Heuer 01 – 29.3mm – section haggle pinion – 39 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 50h force reserve

OMEGA Caliber 9300 – 2011

Knowing the industrial organization inside the Swatch Group, one could argue for quite a long time about the first ‘in-house’ chronograph at Omega (taking the example of the 1861, which is based on Lemania blanks). This is the reason we have picked the caliber 9300, the primary valid in-house integrated automatic chronograph with Co-Axial escapement. Introduced in 2011, the 9300 features a silicon balance spring, a twofold barrel, a segment haggle clutch.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph Omega 9300 – 30mm – section haggle grip – 54 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 60h force reserve

CHOPARD 03.05.M – 2012

Chopard has been utilizing in-house developments for quite a while with its L.U.C. line of top of the line watches. In any case, with regards to classic Chopard watches, it’s just with the Chopard Superfast assortment that the brand started to utilize an in-house automatic chronograph. The caliber 03.05.M is a COSC confirmed segment wheel chronograph with original openworked bridges.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph 03.05.M – 28.80mm – segment haggle grip – 45 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 60h force reserve

ULYSSE NARDIN UN-150 – 2012

In 2012, Ulysse Nardin purchased the Ebel 137 Chronograph. It was renamed UN-150 and improved in-house with several updates including a silicon hairspring (seen beneath with the oscillating mass).

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 31mm – switch chronograph – 25 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 48h force reserve

CARTIER 1904-CH MC – 2013

The Cartier caliber 1904-CH made its presentation on board the Caliber de Cartier Chronograph. It is a twin-barrel development with segment haggle clutch.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 26.8mm – section haggle grasp – 35 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 48h force reserve

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 3800 – 2013

Produced in rather restricted quantities up until now, the primary GP current integrated in-house chronograph is based on its 3000 arrangement. It features a traditional horizontal grip and segment wheel as well as bouncing minutes. Prior to its turn of events, the brand depended generally on Dubois-Depraz modules as well as a small, original in-house modular chronograph with its segment wheel noticeable dial side.

Quick facts: hand-wound chronograph – 25.6mm – section haggle grip – 31 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 58h force reserve

VACHERON CONSTANTIN 3300 – 2015

Vacheron Constantin’s first in-house chronograph development made its presentation in the Harmony assortment. Bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, it features a classic section haggle horizontal grip and is a mono-pusher hand-wound calibre.

Quick facts: hand-wound chronograph – 32.8mm – segment haggle grip – 35 gems – 21,600 vibrations each hour – 65h force reserve

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT FC-760 – 2017

Frederique Constant’s in-house chronograph stays in accordance with the idea of affordable extravagance, with a retail cost simply over EUR 3,500. This modular flyback chronograph features an original star-shaped segment haggle new kind of grasp based on a turning component with two toothed pinions.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 30mm – star-shaped segment haggle grip – 54 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 38h force reserve

AUDEMARS PIGUET 4400 – 2019

Until 2019, AP just manufactured small quantities of very good quality, complicated chronographs in-house – in the APRP manufacture. Nonetheless, the brand depended generally on re-appropriated, modular chronograph developments for its more straightforward watches… until the launch of the great grade 4400 caliber that appeared with the Code 11.59 assortment. This integrated segment wheel, vertical grasp development was created as part of another family of developments along with the AP 4300 automatic base calibre.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 32mm – section haggle grip – 40 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 70h force reserve

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER PF362 – 2019

Following the presentation of the eminent Chronor split-seconds chronograph in 2016, Parmigiani disclosed the caliber PF362 on the same base. This shaped caliber is a high-recurrence chronograph with vertical grip and section wheel.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 39.7mm x 31.9mm – section haggle grasp – 32 gems – 36,000 vibrations each hour – 65h force reserve

BVLGARI BVL 318 – 2019

Part of the noteworthy arrangement of records of the Bvlgari Finissimo saga, the BVL318 is the world’s most slender chronograph (and automatic chronograph) at simply 3.30mm thick. To achieve such slimness, the development is twisted by a peripheral rotor while the large diameter has allowed all capacities to be arranged horizontally.

Quick facts: automatic chronograph – 37.2mm – section haggle grasp – 37 gems – 28,800 vibrations each hour – 55h force reserve