When mentioning Omega and its collections, the prompt and simple answers will be “Speedmaster” and “Seamaster”. Certainly, those two lines of watches are the absolute generally iconic in the whole industry. All things considered, Omega has (considerably) more to offer, including a marginally neglected yet rich collection named “Constellation”. Brought into the world in the 1950s , it would become the experimental collection for the brand, with fascinating plans and a constant spotlight on exactness. Presently settled with its exemplary hooks and integrated bracelet configuration, it was no time like the present for Omega to inject a touch of advancement into this collection … Because integrated bracelets, formed cases and lively looks are hot nowadays (to say the least!).
The Omega Constellation, a Complex collection
While the Speedmaster is a collection that can be handily perceived, and the Seamaster is viewed as the definitive Omega plunge watch, the history of the Constellation by Omega is somewhat more complex, if not fragmented. Its introduction to the world returns even before the name was received by Omega, when the brand delivered its previously restricted release watch to praise its 100th commemoration in 1948, a chronometer-affirmed wristwatch with a programmed movement. Given its prosperity, the brand chose to make a full collection based on this unparalleled combination of accuracy and practicality.
In 1952, Omega revealed the arrangement created Constellation, a group of watches originally destined for men, fitted with type 354. Two striking highlights distinguished the main individuals from the Constellation family: a star and the name of the watch over the 6 o’clock marker and a fixed caseback with an emblem featuring the Observatory of Geneva delegated by a constellation of eight stars. The principal models were fitted with types 351, 352, and 354 with guard rotors and supplanted four years after the fact by types 500, 501, 505 and along these lines, in 1966 with type 561 for the date model, and in the end type 564. Be that as it may, this early Constellation collection consistently gave incredible consideration to chronometry, just as being Omega’s concept of luxury.
By the last part of the 1960s, when configuration changed definitely in watchmaking, Omega utilized its Constellation collection to introduce striking, bracelet-like watches. The originally integrated bracelet/case made its presentation in 1969. While the current plan of the Constellation hadn’t appeared right now, this was the initial step into sports extravagance for the brand. Underneath, an Omega Constellation BA 368.0847, as the ideal illustration of this change into integrated bracelets and formed cases (even before AP did as such with the RO), promoted as the “first watches on the planet to be furnished with bracelets genuinely integrated with the case… a framework invented in 1964 by Pierre Moinat“.
During the 1970s, quartz movements showed up in this collection – which, in a way, bodes well, as quartz was not just seen as the eventual fate of watchmaking back at that point yet in addition as the best arrangement as far as accuracy. The genuine turning point in the history of the Constellation, and the progression that explains the current plan, happened in 1982, with the Constellation Manhattan family. Still fueled by quartz movements (the primary models were furnished with super thin type 1422 grew jointly with ETA), the distinctive element of this collection was the four screwed ‘Griffes’ or paws extending from the case over the dial. Situated at 3 and 9 o’clock, the exceptionally cleaned paws would become the trademark highlight of the Manhattan. Tastefully arresting, the hooks likewise played out a useful capacity holding the sapphire precious stone and gasket solidly against the case to guarantee water-resistance.
Designed via Carol Didisheim and licensed in 1985, the Manhattan included a barrel-molded case and was offered to the two men and women in gold and steel and combinations of the two metals. The adjusted case top was scalloped at the two finishes and, as Omega Constellation master and blogger Desmond Guilfoyle points out in his paper, there was not “one sharp line on the whole case and bracelet – even the case back edges are adjusted off“. By 1995, the plan developed again, as the Roman numerals on the dial relocated to the bezel.
In 1984 a programmed variant of the Manhattan was introduced close by the ordinary offering of quartz. The Caliber 1111 was a guaranteed chronometer movement based on the well known ETA workhorse 2892-2. In 2003, the Constellation Double Eagle – dispatched at the Omega European Masters Golf Tournament – was redesigned with Omega’s first Co-Axial type 2500.
A significant advance into the Constellation’s history happened in 2015, with the introduction of both Omega’s Master Chronometer confirmation and the new Globemaster watch, which honored the early “Pie-Pan” watches. In any case, the original 1980s plan wasn’t failed to remember and, taking into account the current achievement of watches with integrated bracelets, Omega has chosen to refresh its men’s Constellation Manhattan with new models for 2020.
So, we have another Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm. Let’s promptly arrive at the point: it is a delicate progress, not a spic and span plan. Omega has chosen to do an unpretentious facelift instead of altogether reshaping its integrated watch. One of the main reasons is that, despite the fact that the Constellation Manhattan isn’t valued by European and US markets, it is a gigantic accomplishment in Asia. Omega didn’t need to change the formula to an extreme. Is this a purpose behind Western aficionados not to consider this watch? Certainly not, particularly since the new models have strong arguments to compete in the market.
Even however the watch looks recognizable, not one element of the new 2020 Omega Constellation 39mm resembles its 38mm, non-Master-Chronometer archetype. Case, bracelet, dial, hands and movement, everything has been unobtrusively redesigned.
First of all, the watch has gained 1mm in measurement, to give it a touch more presence on the wrist and to be in line with the current interest for marginally bigger watches. Nothing emotional however, as the watch remains compact on the wrist, on account of its barrel-molded case and its integrated bracelet. We haven’t estimated the thickness however expect around 12mm. The case, while staying consistent with the original plan which plays on concave and convex lines, has been totally facelifted and now offers better finishes and more subtlety.
First, the bezel is somewhat thinner and the Roman numerals, actually engraved on its outskirts, are more modest than previously. Second, the hooks, a mark element of the collection, are currently more separated yet cleaned to contrast over the for the most part brushed case. Finally, the whole outskirts of the case presently includes a cleaned slant that adds some dynamism to the watch and improves the apparent quality. In line with different results of Omega, the crown currently has a conical profile. Surprisingly, be that as it may, the Constellation Master Chronometer 39mm is “only” water-impervious to 50 meters, while the past 38mm model was appraised at 100m.
An significant piece of the Omega Constellation configuration was its integrated bracelet, and gauging the latest thing for this sort of watches, Omega has given incredible consideration to this piece of the watch. Again, while it feels natural from the start, the whole bracelet is new, with overhauled links, cleaned slants on the edges and cleaned mid-bar links, contrasting with the brushed links. As should be obvious, these mid-bars are not full length any longer and utilized as a contrasting element on the two-tone adaptations of this watch. The general profile of the bracelet and lock has been thinned in, and the triple folding fasten now includes a comfort-discharge work with a 2mm fine adjustment – functional in summer to give some additional length to the bracelet. The general nature of the bracelet is amazing and feels extremely lovely on the wrist.
However, if a metallic bracelet isn’t your thing, Omega additionally offers numerous varieties of its new Constellation Master Chronometer 39mm on croc ties giving this watch a dressier clothing. These calfskin choices are combined with a deployant buckle.
Finally, the dials have been updated, with new surfaces, new colors, new indexes and new hands – however the mark star logo is as yet noticeable at 6 o’clock. Likewise with the remainder of the watch, the dials are more refined and more clean. The hands copy the state of the Freedom Tower in New York and the indexes have been thinned down. The main update, in any case, concerns the date window that is presently trapezoidal and situated at 6 o’clock. Numerous surfaces and colors are offered, with matte opaline silver, jumble design (as seen above, and exceptionally lovely, in actuality) and sunray brushed.
Master Chronometer mechanics
Regarding mechanics, Omega continues the integration of its boss Master Chronometer movements across the entirety of its collections, and the new Constellation is no special case. Replacing the Caliber 8500 found in the past 38mm variants, the new Omega Constellation 39mm becomes “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” and integrates the notable type 8800 (or 8801 on gold adaptations). This movement is equivalent to the one utilized, for instance, in the as of late redid Seamaster Diver 300M and has demonstrated to be both amazingly exact and reliable.
Beating at 25,200vph (3.5Hz) and with a 55h force save on one barrel, this programmed movement includes all the exemplary Omega innovations, like Co-Axial escapement and a silicon balance spring. The METAS-affirmed chronometer movement additionally offers strong enemy of attractive properties fit for dealing with fields of up to 15,000 gauss.
Visible through the sapphire gem caseback, you can see the rhodium-plated finishes, the arabesque Geneva waves and darkened screws. The main contrast between type 8800 and 8801 is the presence of strong gold elements – rotor and balance connect. Other than that, the determinations are indistinguishable. The watch comes with a 5-year warranty.
A Luxury Sports Watch Alternative?
Before we attempt to address this inquiry, obviously Omega has sought after a more conservative line with these new versions of the Constellation. The advancement of the plan is inconspicuous and just noticeable in the subtleties. All things considered, the general feeling is that Omega has overhauled its watch on all levels. The nature of the case, with its cleaned slant finishes, is unquestionable. The increase in size is minimal. The bracelets are all the more currently formed and have interesting highlights, like the comfort augmentation. The dials are pleasantly executed and the movement that ticks inside this watch is a benchmark for the remainder of the industry. Also, with a starting cost beneath EUR 6,000, the new Omega Constellation 39mm offers a great deal for the money.
Now comes the significant question… Is this new Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm equipped for competing in the consistently growing extravagance sports watch class? It certainly can’t be compared to the heavyweights of the industry – Royal Oak , Nautilus and Overseas – essentially on the grounds that they play in various associations (and totally different value classes as well). Same goes for the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo or the Chopard Alpine Eagle , as the two watches are valued around EUR 12,000.
The interesting point with the Omega Constellation is that it is practically the lone watch of this kind in the mid-end range, except for the Bell & Ross BR05 , a watch that feels considerably more present day, sportier and bolder in plan. Also, as mentioned, with a section level cost of EUR 5,500 on cowhide and EUR 5,700 on a steel bracelet, the Omega is very competitive.
Is it actually an extravagance sports watch, however? Let’s say that it is a conservative, marginally more exquisite and not very lively vision of the formed watch with an integrated bracelet. However, plainly, it has some incredible arguments, as long as you prefer its generally special design.
Collection, Price & Availability
The new Omega Constellation Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39mm is dispatched as a whole collection of 26 references, accessible in steel (calfskin tie or steel bracelet), two-tone (with contrasting elements in Sedna or yellow gold, again with cowhide lash or bracelet) or in full Sedna or yellow gold (on calfskin tie or bracelet). Different dials are likewise accessible, in silver, blue, dim, dark, earthy colored or champagne.
Below the maximum list:
- steel on cowhide – EUR 5,500
- steel on steel bracelet – EUR 5,700
- steel-and-gold on cowhide – EUR 7,000
- steel-and-gold on bracelet – EUR 8,400
- Sedna gold on cowhide – EUR 17,500
- Sedna gold on bracelet – EUR 29,800
- yellow gold on cowhide – EUR 17,500
- yellow gold on bracelet – EUR 29,800
The collection is presently accessible at retailers and official stores. More information about the collection here, at omegawatches.com .