For the individuals who are into watchmaking, the name Audemars Piguet may address probably the best watches, yet in addition current and striking plans. Regardless of whether it is the notable Royal Oak, the hearty Offshore or the new Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet infrequently looks to the past with regards to its watches, or possibly when to comes to the plan of its watches. Yet, this is going to change. Today Audemars Piguet dispatches another watch which looks at quite possibly the most notorious wrist chronographs of its past, the ref. 1533. Its name is the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph. And it truly offers a solid portion of desirability.
First of all, this isn’t a legitimate vintage re-version. As demonstrated by its name, [Re]master01 “is a contemporary remastering of one of our past creations” says Michael Friedman, Audemars Piguet’s Head of Complications. This is a mix of legacy and innovation. All things considered, it very well may be outwardly roused by the past model however comes in present day measurements and highlights an inventive development inside. However, before we look at this Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 in detail, let’s plunge into the past first.
The motivation, the Audemars Piguet Ref. 1533
Audemars Piguet is generally known for its particular extravagance sports watches. Indeed, the watch that launched the pattern of the extravagance sports watch, the 1972 Royal Oak, overwhelms the view to much that it’s simple to fail to remember that AP fabricated the absolute best chronographs and unending schedules. Be that as it may, these wrist chronographs by Audemars Piguet are uncommon, extremely uncommon. As per the specialists, just 307 models were made between the 1930s through the 1950s – a period we know as the golden time of fine chronographs, with hand-wound developments, unique plans and magnificent dials. In those days, the chronograph wasn’t yet the games watch we know today (this would happen in the last part of the 1950s and mid 1960s, with the Speedmaster and the Daytona). Back in nowadays, Audemars Piguet was producing refined, valuable dress chronographs. Perhaps the best model being the ref. 1533. And all were novel pieces.
The Audemars Piguet 1533 is the ideal illustration of the top of the line 1940s chronograph. It packs all the attractive components you could dream of. As a matter of first importance, it has a 36mm case, and shockingly, this case could be requested in a combination of treated steel and pink gold, similar to the current model. Second, it highlighted appealing teardrop drags, suggestive of the Art Deco time, which can likewise be seen on the dial with the adapted 12. Additionally generally uncommon for the time, this was 3-counter chronograph. The dial of the vintage model that filled in as the motivation was made in an exceptional rose-champagne tone, with blued chronograph hands.
Regarding shortage, as per Phillips Watches, “only three hardened steel and gold chronograph wristwatches with the current case configuration were fabricated in 1941 and later sold in 1943, and the model offered here is the just one with such a (…) dial.” The dial includes a tachymeter scale just as a decent detail; the number “45” is imprinted in red over the 15-minute imprint inside the 30-minute register – to permit the wearer to record up to 45 minutes.
This Audemars Piguet 1533 was fueled by a hand-wound development, the notable type 13VZAH with 22 gems – made by Valjoux – an exemplary segment haggle grip development. The current piece has showed up in any event twice on the sale circuit. First in 2013 with Sotheby’s and sold for CHF 115,000 and on the other hand in 2015 with Phillips and sold for CHF 305,000. This very watch, presently in the hands of the Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection, has been rethought in a cutting edge bundle with a notable in-house chronograph movement.
The new Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph
When looking at this new chronograph, there can be no uncertainty about the filiation between the vintage 1533 and the new [Re]master01. This is self-evident. Most the subtleties have been brought back, regardless of whether it is the two-tone case, the shapes, the drags or the dial and every one of its components. Albeit the watch may feel vintage and have a place with a legacy assortment, there’s likewise some advancement in it… It feels more current, size-wise and material-wise.
The instance of the [Re]master01 is as yet made of a combination of hardened steel and 18 pink gold – the last being utilized for the bezel, the crown and the adjusted pushers.
The dial of the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 is additionally a tribute to the past model, with all its component delightfully repeated. There’s a clear 1940s/Art Deco feel, with the blue tachymeter scale, the adapted 12 marker, the extended mallet, the straightforward, dainty gold hands. Textual styles and sub-dials have additionally been repeated, including the “45” sign in the moment recorder. The 3 hands for the chronograph are blued steel, similar to the first. There is no date opening. In a takeoff from the first, the dial is a yellow gold tone rather than rose gold and the sub-dials are put contrastingly in view of the advanced development: little seconds at 6 o’clock, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12-hour counter at 3 o’clock.
One little detail to take note of, the new [Re]master01 highlights the mark “Audemars Piguet & Co. Genève” on the dial, despite the fact that it is fabricated in Le Brassus like all AP watches. From around 1885 to the mid-1970s, Audemars Piguet had a workshop in Geneva to be nearer to its customers and encourage dispersion inside Europe and past. As an accolade for the first piece, the brand decided to keep this memorable logo.
On the in opposition to the vintage 1533 watch and its hand-wound Valjoux-based development, the re-release is furnished with a significantly more current motor, the brand’s new in-house, coordinated programmed flyback chronograph development – which we clarified in detail in this specialized article . This development, introduced in Code 11.59 , is a cutting edge present day chronograph with all the most recent specialized arrangements. The enormous 32mm width Caliber 4409, highlights a section haggle grip, the last empowering exact beginnings and stops. Explicit to this development are the three twin sledges and mallet springs. The sledges are answerable for resetting the hands. The three sledge springs are practically indistinguishable and situated one close to the next. Not exclusively is the capacity smooth and complete however it is truly cool to see these in real life one close to the next, which is eminently featured by the design of the movement.
Also imperative to note is that Caliber 4409 is a flyback chronograph, which implies it tends to be gotten back to nothing and restarted immediately with a solitary press of the catch. The force save is entirely comfortable, at 70 hours, and the development runs at an advanced recurrence – 28,800 vibrations/hours or 4Hz. The adornment incorporates straight and roundabout glossy silk brushing, Geneva stripes and perlage – on the two sides of the scaffolds, even in the concealed territories. The scaffolds highlight enormous chamfers, impeccably precious stone cleaned. Inscriptions are gold toned. The 22K gold rotor is designed with a guilloché pattern.
The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is worn on a light earthy colored, hand-sewed calf cowhide lash with a steel pin clasp. An earthy colored croc tie is additionally included.
Price and availability
The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph (ref. 26595SR-OO-A032VE-01) will be restricted to 500 pieces and estimated at CHF 49,500 (before taxes).