The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph

About seven days prior, Audemars Piguet presented an extremely astounding watch. Planned as the primary watch in another assortment roused by the brand’s rich past, the [Re]master01 watch is a remastering of an excellent memorable model. In light of a 1943 two-tone chronograph with Art Deco plan, this uncommon and handsome watch had a hand-twisted development with “teardrop” carries. Audemars Piguet’s thought was to offer a sample of the past in a contemporary bundle. Notwithstanding the complex circumstance, we had the option to get our hands on this wonderful piece and to perceive what it truly resembles in the metal… And indeed, it truly has the right to be seen on the wrist. 

Judging a piece on press pictures, frequently 3D renders or ultra-photoshopped pictures, can be deluding. Other than the undeniable absence of extents and feeling on the wrist, these pictures don’t consistently do equity to the watch. The manner in which the encompassing light plays with a watch is significant, making reflections, changing the shade of a dial… The principal pictures of the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph gave a moderately striking picture of the watch, with brilliant gold tones. Yet, let’s come to the heart of the matter; the new [Re]master01 is undeniably more unobtrusive, in actuality, undeniably more rich and is genuinely a great piece. It was a  lovely astonishment, which we’ll at look in detail now.

Inspired by The 1943 “teardrop” Chronograph

The 1972 Royal Oak denoted a tremendous advance throughout the entire existence of Audemars Piguet, being the watch that launched the pattern of the extravagance sports watch. It is likewise a watch that radically adjusted the substance of the company, changing from exquisite dress watches fabricated on solicitation to the creation of bolder games watches – still Haute Horlogerie, however with an alternate employment. Few may realize that, until 1951, each watch fabricated by Audemars Piguet was remarkable – there were models delivered in various models, however completely contrasted with an exceptional dial, an uncommon combination of materials…

If we glance back at what Audemars Piguet was before the Royal Oak, we need to recall that the brand (part of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking) fabricated probably the best chronographs and unending schedules. These wrist chronographs by Audemars Piguet are exceptionally uncommon. As indicated by the brand, just 307 models were made between the 1930s through the 1950s – a period we know as the golden time of fine chronographs, with hand-wound developments, unique plans and marvelous dials. In this period, Audemars Piguet was fabricating refined, valuable dress chronographs. Perhaps the best model being the pre-model 1533 (editor’s note: back in the days, reference numbers didn’t exist yet, so the watch is here listed as “Photograph 1533”). In those days, the chronograph wasn’t yet the games watch we know today (this would happen in the last part of the 1950s and mid 1960s).

The Audemars Piguet 1943 “Teardrop” is the ideal illustration of a very good quality 1940s chronograph. Most importantly, it has a 36mm case, and shockingly, this case could be requested in a combination of treated steel and pink gold, similar to the current model. Second, it highlighted appealing teardrop hauls, suggestive of the Art Deco time, alongside the adapted 12 on the dial. Likewise generally uncommon for the period, this was a 3-counter chronograph. The dial of the vintage model that filled in as the motivation was made in a novel rose-champagne tone with blued chronograph hands.

Regarding shortage, as indicated by Phillips Watches, “only three treated steel and gold chronograph wristwatches with the current case configuration were produced in 1941 and later sold in 1943, and the model offered here is the just one with such a (… ) dial.” The dial includes a tachymeter scale just as a decent detail; the number “45” is imprinted in red over the 15-minute imprint inside the 30-minute register – to permit the wearer to record up to 45 minutes.

This Audemars Piguet Chronograph was fueled by a hand-wound development, the notable type 13VZAH with 22 gems – produced by Valjoux – an exemplary segment haggle grip development. The current piece has showed up at any rate twice on the closeout circuit. First in 2013 with Sotheby’s and sold for CHF 115,000 and of course in 2015 with Phillips and sold for CHF 305,000. This very watch, presently in the hands of the Audemars Piguet Heritage Collection, has been “remastered” in a cutting edge bundle to become the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph.

the [Re]master Concept

Let’s start with what the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 isn’t. It’s anything but a reliable vintage re-release of a current watch. Nothing amiss with that since the actual brand is open in saying this. This watch isn’t intended to be a 1-to-1 duplicate. So what is it at that point? As per Michael Friedman, the man responsible for Complications at Audemars Piguet, who’s additionally prompting on Heritage, this watch is intended to be a 21st-century manifestation of a great vintage watch with various components to make it an in fact contemporary piece – thus the name [Re]master. By presenting the brand’s most recent innovation, the comfort of a programmed development and contemporary extents into a watch that inspires the rich legacy of the brand, the first has been ‘remastered’.

Most of the vintage-propelled watches that we see available today depend on the 1950s and 1960s. The past and following many years are fairly belittled and the fixation is on the alluring and early games watches of the twenty years following WWII. Understandably, since these twenty years have delivered probably the most delightful watches we can consider. It saw the introduction of the jump watch, the ascent of the games chronograph, the regular citizen pilots’ watches and, by and large, the time of the instrument watch… However, the 1930s and 1940s additionally have a lot of delights. On the in spite of the device watch time, the pre-WWII period was home for innovativeness and style, with numerous statements of case structure and dial plan. And the [Re]master01 honors Audemars Piguet Art Deco watches.

The [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph

It is time currently to take a gander at the watch in details. The instance of the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph is unmistakably enlivened by the state of the 1533. The entire shape, an adjusted rock altogether cleaned with a high bezel, is consistent with the first. So are the carries, short and molded like teardrops – a fairly abnormal shape, which is some way or another interesting to the 1930s and 1940s and that gives this watch its personality. Taking a gander along the edge of the watch, we can see a combination of two materials, 18k rose gold for the bezel, the crown and the pushers, and hardened steel for the primary case, the caseback and the carries. Audemars Piguet chose to hold the ordinary “navette” pushers (on the off chance that you need to know, this name has to do with a French baked good) and the larger than usual crown, yet with a thin profile – both being somewhat exemplary for vintage chronographs.

In terms of extents, the case has been expanded to a cutting edge measurement at 40mm compared to the 36mm of the first watch. However, 40mm remaining parts totally worthy thinking about the 42mm or in addition to width of present day chronographs. Combined with short hauls, it makes for a compact case that sits well on the wrist. It has some presence, surely, yet at the same time has exemplary extents that fit with the general idea of [Re]master01. The tallness of the case is significant, at 14.6mm, because of the presence of a cutting edge programmed development. Nonetheless, this in some way or another assists with holding the width/stature proportion of the old pre-model 1533.

The combination of steel and rose gold feels fairly strange since it isn’t the sort of materials you would consider while making a 1940s enlivened watch. Full steel or full yellow gold would have been the simpler options, however this steel-and-gold combo (something that a large portion of us see as a 1980s style) is an intentional decision by Audemars Piguet. In addition to the fact that it echoes the first watch it is a strong move to separate the watch. Some would have surely favored a steel watch with a silver-toned dial… yet at any rate Audemars establishes a hitting connection with this first [Re]master watch that separates it from the crowd.

The same can be said about the dial of the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph. It summons the past yet in addition coordinates present day highlights needed by the usage of a cutting edge development. Nonetheless, other than the conspicuous difference in situation for the sub-dials – their area is extraordinary and so is their situation on the dial, since the two sub-dials are not actually positioned on the 3-9 hub however marginally above – the style of the vintage dial has been all around ensured. Hands, textual styles, surfaces and tones are authentic and characterized and the littlest subtleties have been wonderfully reproduced.

The dial has a smooth vertically brushed surface, similar to the first, with a yellow gold tone (dull champagne…) here once more, there’s a solid distinction between the authority pictures and the truth since the shade of the dial is definitely more inconspicuous than it showed up from the outset sight. Contingent upon the encompassing light and reflections, the dial changes from a light champagne tone to a dim, matured gold-tone (practically golden). To show the time, Audemars Piguet likewise held the straight mallet hands in cleaned yellow gold, which are shockingly simple to peruse. The chronograph signs are completely shown because of blued steel hands, coordinating the blue tachymeter scale on the fringe of the dial. The execution of the dial is amazing, with conveniently characterized textual styles and flawlessly executed gold hands. And to remain consistent with the 1533, the brand chose not to add a date window.

One significant detail, the new [Re]master01 highlights the mark “Audemars Piguet & Co. Genève” on the dial, despite the fact that it is made in Le Brassus like all AP watches. From around 1885 to the mid-1970s, Audemars Piguet had a workshop in Geneva to be nearer to its customers and encourage circulation inside Europe and past. As an accolade for the first piece, the brand decided to keep this notable logo.

To power this [Re]master01, Audemars Piguet depends on its most recent chronograph development, introduced in Code 11.59 , and that we clarified in detail in this specialized article . This advanced programmed development is in fact noteworthy and highlights the most current arrangements. The enormous 32mm breadth Caliber 4409, highlights a segment haggle grip, the last empowering exact beginnings and stops. Explicit to this development are the three twin mallets and sledge springs. The mallets are liable for resetting the hands. The three sledge springs are practically indistinguishable and situated one close to the next. Not exclusively is the capacity smooth and complete however it is truly cool to see these in real life one close to the next, wonderfully featured by the engineering of the movement.

Also imperative to note is that Caliber 4409 is a flyback chronograph, which implies it very well may be gotten back to nothing and restarted quickly with a solitary press of the catch. The force hold is entirely comfortable, at 70 hours, and the development runs at an advanced recurrence – 28,800 vibrations/hours or 4Hz. The adornment incorporates straight and round glossy silk brushing, Geneva stripes and perlage – on the two sides of the scaffolds, even in the concealed zones. The scaffolds highlight huge chamfers, consummately jewel cleaned. Etchings are gold toned. The 22K gold rotor is enlivened with a guilloché pattern.

Although a few perfectionists will contend that this development is a long way from the Valjoux ébauche found in the 1533, it does, in any case, befit the [Re]master01 idea. Notwithstanding that, it takes into account the offset of the dial with all around separated sub-dials. A last word with respect to the development: it is enormous and altogether fills the case. There’s something extremely fulfilling in seeing a huge development in a moderately little watch. Sufficiently uncommon to be mentioned.

The [Re]master01 is worn on an easygoing light-earthy colored cowhide tie, which by and by adds to the appeal of the watch – an extra earthy colored croc tie is additionally remembered for the introduction box, be that as it may, it may give the watch a too formal attire.

What to think about the [Re]master01?

It was clearly a need to see this watch in its territory, on the wrist and in regular light. While the authority pictures drove some to call attention to that the two-tone case and the dial were too immersed, too differentiated, the fact of the matter is unique. The [Re]master01 is without a doubt significantly more unobtrusive, considerably more downplayed. It has a great tastefulness, some appeal and is vivacious. We can’t reject that it has some presence and some sparkle, however it is rarely conspicuous or unreasonable. The rose gold utilized for the bezel/crown/pushers is delicate and diverges from the virus shade of steel. It is rarely overpowering and mixes with the shade of the dial.

Audemars Piguet might have gone the easy route by making this watch in steel with a silver-toned dial. This would have been consensual however the selection of shadings here is extremely fascinating. Perhaps some won’t like it, yet thinking about that lone 500 pieces will be made, this watch will sell out quickly.

Regarding the execution, the quality is certain. The dial is very point by point and completely produced. Same goes for the case and the Caliber 4409. With respect to “remastering” idea, there will consistently be idealists who might have prefered to see a 36mm case and a hand-wound development. In any case, as far as we might be concerned, Audemars Piguet has figured out how to present advancement without adjusting the first watch – which, regardless, would have been practically difficult to imitate to a 100% level.

All in all, Audemars Piguet presents an accomplished, intense watch with its [Re]master01. An attractive assertion to present this new concept.

PS. to François-Henry Bennahmias and Micheal Friedman… If you need to proceed with remastered forms of the Streamline Jumping Hour, the 5516 Perpetual  or a portion of these wonderful 1920s/1930s minute repeaters with pad molded cases… We completely understand! Just saying.

PRICE AND AVAILABILITY

The Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph (ref. 26595SR-OO-A032VE-01) will be restricted to 500 pieces and its retail cost will be CHF 53,400 (charges incl.) More subtleties at www.audemarspiguet.com .