Yesterday, we brought you Part 1 of our History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut . That article portrays the climate wherein the Aquanaut was imagined and dispatched. The powerful days of the dot.com blast during the 1990s, set apart by a strongly more easygoing way to deal with extravagance. With its finger to the beat, Patek Philippe reacted to these changing tastes with the presentation of the primary Aquanaut, the Ref. 5060A, in 1997. Also, a star was conceived. Presently, we quick forward 10 years to 2007, where the 10th commemoration of the Aquanaut is set apart by a complete update of the assortment, setting the course for all future models.
The 10th Anniversary
A year sooner, in 2006, Patek Philippe had commended another significant achievement: the 30th commemoration of the Nautilus . This is the point at which all the advanced works of art – the 5711, the 5712, and so on – were conceived. Riding the influx of this inventive energy, Patek’s planners and designers at that point directed their concentration toward refreshing the lines of the Aquanaut, as expected for the 10th commemoration in 2007. This was no significant upgrade, obviously. The Aquanaut was at that point an effective assortment for Patek Philippe and there was no compelling reason to play with the equation to an extreme. Or maybe it was to a greater extent a refinement. Inconspicuous changes to a great extent to make an all around great watch even better.
As you may anticipate, the octagonal case, intensely affected by that of the Genta-planned Nautilus, which itself was roused by a marine opening, was generally unaltered. Effectively viewed as notorious, there wasn’t actually a lot to be developed. Fortunately Patek Philippe had the fair not to accomplish more than scarcely relax a portion of the edges, giving it a somewhat rounder appearance. In spite of the fact that, as we will find in a moment, an “extra-enormous” case size was introduced.
Where time and consideration were all around spent however was on the embellished design on the dial. As you would have found in Part. 1, the mathematical example on the original of Aquanauts was very articulated. Indeed, the dials look a lot of like a square of Swiss chocolate. In the go-go 1990s, such an intense plan was particularly stylish. After 10 years, tastes had become a smidgen more refined, with an inclination towards the downplayed. Appropriately, Patek streamlined the dial of the Aquanaut fairly. It utilizes a similar fundamental example, yet the embellishing is less articulated and marginally more curved.
The result is a dial that is less unmistakable on the wrist however seemingly likewise more adaptable. This is a similar dial configuration utilized on the Aquanaut today and I believe any reasonable person would agree Patek settled on the correct decision with this change. The other thing you will see is that the Arabic numerals used to indicate the hours are a touch bigger and the number ‘3’ has been taken out and out. This permitted the date window to be moved towards the focal point of the dial marginally, which means a lume plot could be included the part ring at 3 o’clock. It’s an unobtrusive change maybe, however one which makes the progression of the dial surprisingly better than before.
The most huge changes relate to the Tropical elastic tie. Patek updated the shapes of the lash to coordinate decisively with the bend of the case. This addressed the last advancement of the thought presented on the absolute first Aquanaut, where the surface on the lash reflected the example on the dial to make a feeling of progression. This is most likely as close you can get to an incorporated tie utilizing elastic. The construction was additionally refined, with level sides underscoring the watch’s sportier nature and improved shape for a more formed fit on the wrist. Indeed, even within the lash was upgraded for added comfort. To hold it set up, Patek built up another twofold security overlap over fasten solely for the Aquanaut collection.
These changes were introduced in two new models, one of which would become emphatically more mainstream than the other. A few additional models would follow throughout the long term, obviously. In this way, how about we investigate what they are.
Aquanaut Ref. 5167 & Ref. 5165
To praise the 10th commemoration of the Aquanaut and update the assortment, Patek Philippe presented two new models; the Ref. 5167 A-001 and the Ref. 5165 A-001. The last was offered in a 38.8mm case and was viably an immediate swap for its archetype, the Ref. 5065A. Its (somewhat) bigger kin however was the one that truly created a ruckus, which is likely why the Ref. 5165 is not, at this point in the collection.
At an advanced 40.8mm (10 – 4 o’clock), the “extra-enormous” Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A was all the more firmly adjusted to the Nautilus as far as wrist presence. It was still incredibly comfortable on the wrist however, and ostensibly a superior translation of the extravagance sports watch tasteful. At a simple 8.1mm thick, even with sapphire caseback and 120m water-opposition rating, this was a watch you could wear to the workplace with formal attire, and afterward leave it on when you took off to supper or to go clubbing. From numerous points of view, it was the advanced understanding of the Aquanaut assortment expected to remain significant with evolving tastes.
Inside the two models was a similar Caliber 315 S C found in the Ref. 5065. The next year, this was refreshed to the Caliber 324 SC with the presentation of the Ref. 5167/1A with coordinated steel arm band. This is precisely the same development discovered inside the Patek Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A. Self-winding, it fuses a few of Patek Philippe’s advancements. These incorporate the four-spoke Gyromax® balance haggle opened balancing loads and the Spiromax® balance-spring in Silinvar® that keeps up the motions at a recurrence of 28,800 vibrations each hour. Most extreme force save is 45 hours.
In 2009, a rose gold case variant joined the line-up as the Ref. 5167R. It includes a chocolate earthy colored decorated dial and gold applied numerals with glowing covering. As you would expect, the Tropical elastic lash is additionally in a coordinating brown.
Ref. 5164 Travel Time
In 2011, Patek Philippe acquainted the principal complication with the Aquanaut assortment. As the name proposes, the Ref. 5164 A-001 Travel Time is intended for explorers. Following similar tasteful codes as the Ref. 5167, there are some significant changes to note.
Firstly, there are two hour hands on a similar hub. The lower one is skeletonized and presentations the home time; the upper one is strong and demonstrates nearby time. You can change the nearby time hand forward or in reverse in one-hour steps utilizing the in addition to and short correctors on the left-hand side of the case. To make things even more clear, there are isolated day/night pointers for both neighborhood and home time. A sub-dial over 6 o’clock shows the neighborhood date by hand.
Making this conceivable is the Caliber 324 S C FUS. The FUS assignment alludes to the Travel Time component. It sounds present day, yet its advancement follows back to a patent conceded to Patek Philippe in 1959. This is the thing that permits you to change the neighborhood hour hand advances and in reverse in 1-hour increases. Not progressive by the present principles, obviously. There various GMT watches that permit you to change the hour hand advances and in reverse. What is noteworthy however, is the way that the case is just 2.1mm thicker than the Ref. 5167. Also, truth be told, the actual development is just 1.6mm thicker. That is despite the way that the Travel Time complication requires an extra 81 parts. Really a demonstration of Patek Philippe’s capacity to astutely incorporate components.
By the way, if this all looks natural this is on the grounds that Patek has since utilized comparable designs on different models, including the Nautilus Travel Time Ref. 5990 1/An and Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524R .
Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G (20th Anniversary)
After the Ref. 5164, things went calm for a couple of years. The rose gold Ref. 5164R was included 2016 yet that was about it. There was another significant achievement not too far off for the Aquanaut assortment however. What’s more, it turned out Patek Philippe had some huge designs for the 20th commemoration. The most unforeseen being the restricted version Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G.
A outwardly striking, practically advanced looking watch, the Ref. 5650G promptly made a buzz at Baselworld 2017 when it was formally divulged. Furthermore, in light of current circumstances. The department of Advance Research has delivered some of Patek Philippe’s most eminent developments: the Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® (2006); the Pulsomax® escapement made of Silinvar® (2008); and the Oscillomax® troupe (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi® equilibrium and Spiromax® balance spring) (2011).
This time around was no special case, with the Ref. 5650G consolidating not one but rather two new developments from the Geneva fabricate. I will not delve into all the subtleties here, yet on the off chance that you might want to know more, I would recommend looking at our top to bottom audit of this watch .
Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G
The Ref. 5650G wasn’t the solitary shock for the 20th commemoration of the Aquanaut. Additionally uncovered in 2017 was the lovely Ref. 5168G “Kind sized”. Denoting the first run through white gold had been utilized in the men’s assortment, the case estimated in at 42.2mm x 8.25mm (subsequently the Jumbo moniker). Furthermore, most would agree it was something of a short-term sensation. Obviously, its eye-getting naval force blue angle dial combined with applied numerals in white gold may likewise have had something to do with that.
This was back when the blue dial pattern was truly beginning to take off thus the market was less immersed with them (in contrast to now). Add to that the way that up until this go-to people’s Aquanaut dials had regularly just been accessible in dark (or chocolate earthy colored for the rose gold models) and you can comprehend why this model stuck out. Combined with a coordinating blue elastic lash and white gold deployant fasten, it was fueled by a similar Caliber 324 S C as the Ref. 5167.
Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A
The following year, Patek Philippe showed it actually had a couple of amazements at its disposal with respect to the Aquanaut assortment. Ostensibly perhaps the boldest watch to at any point issue forward from the brand, the Chronograph Ref. 5968A overwhelmed everybody. What’s more, not on account of its flighty shading plan, albeit that absolutely caused it stick in the psyche of collectors.
This was the main chronograph in the Aquanaut assortment since the model’s creation more than 20 years prior. It was likewise the second sequentially delivered model with a complication (outside of the date). What truly makes the Ref. 5968A stick out however isn’t the splendid orange elastic tie and coordinating orange accents on the dial – despite the fact that they are difficult to miss – but instead the conclusive way Patek incorporated the chronograph. As opposed to attempting to go the customary course, bringing about a bigger case and a bustling dial, the Aquanaut Chronograph just highlights one sub-dial for the 60-minute counter. No running seconds, no 12-hour sub-dial.
Some lauded the choice to keep the dial perfect and the case size sensible at 42.2mm x 11.9mm high. Regardless of whether it came at the expense of some usefulness. While others regretted the way that it was certainly not a “valid” chronograph. Obviously, it’s difficult to contend with the coordinated, in-house type CH 28-520 sitting inside, complete with a segment haggle grip. A flyback chronograph, it includes a few of Patek’s developments, including the Spiromax and Gyromax innovations and is decorated with the Patek Philippe Seal. Whatever your emotions, this is presently perhaps the most pursued models in the assortment and is just about difficult to track down through approved channels.
And don’t stress on the off chance that you don’t care for orange: the Ref. 5968A is conveyed with a subsequent dark elastic lash for when you need to tone it down.
Aquanaut Jumbo Ref. 5168G Khaki Green
The latest model to join the Aquanaut line-up prior this year is the Jumbo Ref. 5168G with khaki green hued dial and coordinating tie. In fact, it is indistinguishable from the 20th commemoration 5168G with angle blue dial. Same 42.2mm x 8.25mm white gold case, same Caliber 324 S C inside. All in all, for what reason did Patek make it? What’s more, how could it come up with a tone as irregular as khaki green? It’s a cool story, and really not as arbitrary as it first seems.
Back in 2011, Patek gave an exceptionally restricted “customers just” Aquanaut Jumbo 5167A-010 out of a 40mm tempered steel case with a khaki green dial and tie. Why they picked khaki green for this model I can just hypothesize, yet I envision it has something to do with the “tropical” subject. Regardless, one of these uncommon watches wound up being offered at closeout by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2015 , where it pounded for a decent CHF 52,500 (amusing to figure what it may sell for the present in this current environment of steel hysteria).
Predictably in our web-based media-driven world, the promotion started to fabricate very quickly. To the point that even the khaki green elastic ties, sold independently by retailers, became hot commodities in their own right. Showing indeed that it’s got its finger on the beat of the market, Patek Philippe made the Aquanaut Jumbo Ref. 5168G Khaki Green and the rest, as is commonly said, is history.
And so closes our two-part history of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut assortment. We trust you have appreciated understanding it, and maybe even got the hang of something you didn’t know previously. As could be, in the event that we have missed anything or in the event that you have any further fascinating bits of knowledge to add, kindly do as such in the comments beneath. What’s more, once more, in the event that you missed Part 1, you can discover it here .
The required update, a timetable of most Aquanaut watches from 1997 to 2017 – distributed by Patek Philippe for the 20th commemoration of the Aquanaut.
Credits for pictures: Patek Philippe, watchclub.com, ssongwatches.com, amsterdamvintagewatches.com, acollectedman.com, hqmilton.com, monochrome-watches.com