For numerous worldwide watch lovers, the name Grand Seiko refers to current and inventive extravagance watches – Spring Drive innovation is to a great extent responsible for this impression. The brand really began to communicate and sell outside of its home market just 10 years prior, thus the relationship with “modern watchmaking”. Notwithstanding, there’s a great deal more to find out about this brand that was created back in 1960 and has been delivering the absolute best watches the Japanese archipelago has at any point seen. This year, the brand commends its 60th anniversary and what might have been a preferred recognition over revisiting the first-historically speaking watch to bear the name Grand Seiko? Let’s investigate the new Grand Seiko Elegance 1960 Re-Creations.
THE FIRST-EVER GRAND SEIKO
Although the worldwide dispatch of Grand Seiko occurred in 2010, the name really traces all the way back to 1960. That year, the already grounded Japanese brand Seiko chose to merge the most awesome aspect its creation in a solitary watch, consequently the name “grand” included front of Seiko. A group in Seiko’s Suwa office in focal Japan had been dealing with the creation of a watch that would be the embodiment of precision, sturdiness, comfort and beauty.
The result, dispatched on 18 December 1960, is the watch you can see over; an exemplary piece in a 35mm, yellow gold (14k) case with a thin chronometer-appraised development whose precision satisfied the most elevated worldwide guideline of the time. This watch additionally settled the establishment of the brand’s plan codes, which incorporates the sharp faceted hands, the twofold hour markers and the well known cleaning method that makes the Grand Seiko cases so attractive.
This watch was commended at Baselworld 2017 with three restricted release reissues, the SBGW251, SBGW252 & SBGW253 – which have been explored in detail here . Since these watches were sold out and the brand is commending its 60th anniversary in 2020, it was the ideal second to consider this to be and exquisite plan as a lasting individual from the collection and not restricted in production.
A more intensive gander at the 2020 Grand Seiko 1960 Re-Creations
As such, these three watches, references SBGW257, SBGW258 and SBGW259, aren’t entirely new to Grand Seiko fans, as they utilize the very recipe that was utilized in 2017.
Case, dial design and development are similar too however a few subtleties in the materials and shadings have changed to create a set of three that stands apart from the previous restricted releases. So let’s investigate, we were one of the first to have the chance to see these watches in the metal – much the same as we did with another 2020 presentation, the Seiko Prospex 62MAS Re-Creation .
In today’s article, we’ll just acquaint you with the platinum (SBGW257) and the titanium form (SBGW259), as the yellow gold model (SBGW258) wasn’t accessible yet. In any case, it is practically indistinguishable from the reference SBGW252 presented in 2017, then again, actually it currently features a sapphire caseback and a three-overlap clasp
ELegant Case and restrained proportions
The fundamental thought with this new set of three of watches was to honor the watch that really dispatched Grand Seiko back in 1960, yet with a somewhat modernized bundle. You won’t be astounded then to see that the greater part of the plan components of the 1960 “Diashock” watch have been reutilized, beginning with the case.
What’s amazing when you take a gander at the first-historically speaking Grand Seiko is the means by which the vast majority of GS configuration codes were already there… The hands, the cleaned surfaces, the shapes, the lists, this first austere look that is exuberant in reality… This watch was the establishment of the entire GS achievement and the brand has kept it alive from that point forward, with no extraordinary change of its design.
The case is molded indistinguishably formed in the 2020 set of three of 1960 Re-Creations. The slim smooth bezel, the extended, marginally cumbersome carries with adjusted profile and slant and the smooth profile all make the filiation verifiable. The primary advancement doesn’t concern the shape yet the size. Rather than a somewhat obsolete and very-1960s distance across of 35mm, Grand Seiko has selected a width of 38mm. Altogether reasonableness, this remains exceptionally compact and establishes the pace for these watches, which must be considered legitimate dress watches – such a Calatrava, the Japanese way. As regularly with Grand Seiko, the case might have been more slender yet at just shy of 11mm in stature, the thickness remains acceptable.
This rich case is, as said, accessible in three variations, from top of the line platinum to exemplary yellow gold or shockingly present day and light titanium. Albeit the two precious metal forms were by one way or another envisioned, the decision for the “entry-level” model is more unforeseen. While we’re used to seeing tempered steel, Grand Seiko picks here for its “Brilliant Hard Titanium”, a comparable to review 5 that takes into consideration cleaned surfaces.
The case is done in the ordinary Grand Seiko way, which means heavenly twisting free surfaces acquired through the Zaratsu (sharp edge cleaning) method. The watches, whether platinum or titanium, have an attractive brilliance and sparkle. All models are worn on work of art and rich moved edge crocodile tie (dark on platinum, earthy colored on gold and blue on titanium), shut by a triple-collapsing fasten in coordinating material.
On the wrist, these watches are compact, exquisite yet with some character. They may be basic 3-handers, the reflections from the case (and the dial/hands, more on that later) offer a remarkable presence. On a 18cm wrist like here, there can be no uncertainty about their rich job. Contingent upon the metal picked, the sensation is marginally different, the platinum model offers a “weight of quality” feel while the lightweight titanium rendition goes unnoticed after a couple minutes.
Typical GS dial and hands
The dials of these 1960 Re-Creations are indisputably Grand Seiko. You’ll recognize the brand quickly, even without a logo imprinted on the dial. Indeed all that feels like the first 1960 model, down to the return of the “Diashock xx jewels” notice at 6 o’clock, then again, actually the development is different, and now “24 jewels” is printed rather than “25 jewels”.
Hands and files are executed in the conventional, hyper-point by point Grand Seiko way. This implies completely completed mirror-cleaned surfaces, changing from brilliant metallic to practically dark reflections relying upon the point of the encompassing light. The hands feature super sharp cleaned slopes and the records are indistinguishable from the 1960 model – twofold faceted cudgel, marginally more extensive at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
Each metal has its own dial here. The platinum variant is furnished with a similarly precious dial, made of strong 18k white gold, with a sunray-brushed completion and the Grand Seiko logo engraved into the material. It is paired with silver-colored hands. The 18k yellow gold model has a warm silver dial with a matte opaline surface and all the components are produced using 18k yellow gold as well (hands, records and applied logo). At last, the titanium form picks a more easygoing look with a brushed top surface of the hands and a sunray dark blue dial with a printed logo.
Legibility and difference are great on the two models we had for this review and the execution, whether on the very good quality platinum SBGW257 or the more open titanium SBGW259 are true to form from Grand Seiko… Stunningly precise.
a notable hand-wound Movement
To power this set of three of 1960 Re-Creation, Grand Seiko didn’t look excessively far and picked a notable development, the hand-wound type 9S64, manufactured in-house.
This development is an attempted and-tried base that has a great history. It was already utilized in the 2017 restricted version set of three and forces one of our number one Grand Seiko watches, the compact and exquisite SBGW231 that we reviewed here . So, we’re in family region with a development brought into the Grand Seiko line in 2011.
This 9S64 is one of only a handful few hand-wound mechanical developments in the GS collection – despite the fact that the brand has now presented more hand-twisted mechanical (with this equivalent development) and Spring-Drive watches . All things considered, it respects its 1960 predecessor outfitted with type 3180, a manual-winding, 25-gem, chronometer-grade movement.
The Caliber 9S64 is a pretty clear motor that is fit for putting away 72 hours of force reserve from a solitary fountainhead and that beats at a traditional frequency of 4Hz. Be that as it may, it is a precise development as well, with an exactness of +5 to – 3 seconds out of every day and a change in 6 positions. The look is straightforward, with a huge principle connect, yet with decent enrichment. The sapphire caseback has a discreet Grand Seiko Lion transferred on its surface.
Thoughts, Availability & Price
While not a complete amazement, as they are very near the 2017 set of three, Grand Seiko settled on the correct choice to bring back this plan as a perpetual individual from the collection, to offer a veritable dress watch with vintage contacts. The three models are exquisite, greatly proportioned and completely executed, with a slight preference for the lightweight and more easygoing take offered by this amazing titanium adaptation – a material regularly seen on games watches, rarely on a particularly rich piece.
The three Grand Seiko Elegance 1960 Re-Creation watches will be accessible as of June 2020 around the world, as lasting individuals from the collection. The platinum SBGW257 will be estimated at EUR 39,000, the 18k yellow gold SBGW258 at EUR 27,000 and the titanium SBGW259 at EUR 8,300. More subtleties at grand-seiko.com .