Let’s play somewhat round of “spot the difference”… And before we permit you to turn the watches over and take a gander at the caseback, it’s going to be an intense one. Indeed, there’s another IWC Portugieser Chronograph , under the reference 3716, a watch that replaces a 22-year-old symbol, the exemplary Portugieser Chronograph 3714 . Furthermore, looking at the opening photo of this article, you might have thought we photographed a similar watch twice… yet we didn’t. Furthermore, let’s be straightforward, this is incredible information. No progressions for change, simply updating what should have been refreshed. Let’s examine the new IW3716 versus its archetype, the IW3714.
Reminder: why the IWC Portugieser Chronograph matters
Together with the pilot’s watch assortment, the Portugieser is certainly the most acclaimed IWC range. Exemplary, notable, wonderfully planned, somewhat dressy without being too formal – it’s one of those watches that most lovers will experience at any rate once in her/his collecting life. For sure, this watch is a faction, particularly the following variant, the programmed chronograph.
The original Portugieser is an old watch, planned in 1939 following the solicitation of two Portuguese vendors (named Rodrigues and Teixeira), who needed to have the exactness of IWC’s deck clocks however to be worn on the wrists while sailing. The outcome is a huge wristwatch, fueled by a pocket watch movement, with a distinctive plan (surprisingly current, even by today’s principles) and a minimalist methodology zeroed in on decipherability and exactness. Know as reference 325, this watch was hard to come by. Just 304 pieces with Caliber 74 were created and 371 pieces with the development of this movement, the Caliber 98 (and its resulting adaptation, Caliber 982). During the 1970s and 1980s, the watch was sold solely on the German market.
In 1993, the circumstance changed and the IWC Portugieser made its comeback for the 125th commemoration of the brand with the Jubilee Edition Ref. 5441 – a 42mm watch delivered in 1,750 pieces – which was incredibly dedicated to the original Ref. 325, including a pocket watch-inspired movement, Caliber 9828 (a development of the Calibers 98 and 982). Notwithstanding, the genuine comeback of the IWC Portugieser, as a predictable assortment, happened in 1995 with the introduction of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Ref. 3712 – a watch that introduced all the advanced plan elements.
In 1998, three years after the introduction of the Chronograph Rattrapante 3712, IWC dispatched a worked on model – Ref. IW3714 – a standard chronograph sharing a similar plan, a similar case, a similar dial and a similar presentation. The main distinction concerned the capacities, as the 3714 disposed of the rattrapante work and took a programmed movement installed. The excellence of this watch lies in its outrageous straightforwardness and the evenness of its plan. Despite the fact that it was fueled by a Valjoux base, the movement was radically changed by IWC. Combined with a nice value, it turned into a commercial achievement. Also, one that didn’t change a bit in 22 years of presence – with the exception of an intermittent dial variations.
The new IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 vs the old 3714
IWC is completely mindful of the circumstance we’ve talked about above. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph is most importantly a commercial achievement on account of its immortal, exemplary and watchful plan, however perhaps less due to what ticks inside the case. As we referenced, there was nothing amiss with the old type 79350. On the in spite of what has been composed, it isn’t “just” a Valjoux movement. It was exceptionally altered by IWC to meet with the brand’s exactness principles and with the particular presentation of the Portugieser (12-hour counter eliminated, little seconds sub-dial set at 6 o’clock, date system completely eliminated, 31 gems instead of 25). Circumstances are different since 1988, and with a name like IWC, a “manufacture” movement has some way or another become an absolute necessity have – this is easily proven wrong however commercially, having your own movement appears to add a great deal of legitimacy.
For 2020, IWC has chosen to dedicate some consideration regarding one of its most notorious pieces… But how would you update a symbol, with the danger of ruining it and making it less alluring than it was? IWC’s answer is basic: you don’t transform anything, aside from what should be changed! Outwardly, except for minor subtleties (and truly, minor is putting it mildly), the new 3716 is just about equivalent to the 3714. Also, learn to expect the unexpected. This is the best thing the brand could have done.
What doesn’t change…? Fundamentally, everything. The watch retains its plan and extents, its presentation, its dials, its finishes, its hands, its tie and no new forms have been added to the assortment; there are as yet unchanged six cycles that were accessible with the reference 3714, meaning four stainless steel models and two rose gold versions.
Now, looking in more detail, furthermore the conspicuous change in mechanics, there are a couple of updates. Let’s start with the case. One reason for the achievement of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph was its moderately little measurements. While 43mm and up are normal in the Portugieser assortment, this “entry-level” adaptation adheres to a very compact measurement. On the old 3714, it estimated 40.9mm. With its refreshed type, the new model presently gauges 41mm. Same goes for the stature of the case, which is 0.3mm thicker – yet just the caseback is thicker, the actual case retains a similar profile. As a general rule, this increase in size is difficult to see and the watch is still amazingly comfortable to wear.
A trained eye will likewise see that the pushers are somewhat extraordinary, with the top area being thinner however a tiny piece bigger. The crown doesn’t change and the case has similar finishings, with cleaned level surfaces and the super thin bezel, while the casebands are brushed. Still got to the wrist by a croc tie (except for watches conveyed to California), the main update regarding the habillage concerns the clasp. The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 is presently outfitted with a triple folding clasp that is thinner and more modest than the already enormous and moderately thick deployant clasp. This permits the clasp to consistently be focused allowing an increased comfort for more modest wrists.
Looking at the dial, here again, it is an intense round of “spot the difference”. Effectively conspicuous gratitude to its even and minimalistic (in any event for a chronograph) show, the new Portugieser Chronograph 3716 retains the entirety of the winning components. It implies flawlessly formed Arabic numerals, dabs for the minutes, leaf-molded hands and a no-date show. The sub-counters, with the 30-minute aggregator at 12 o’clock and the little seconds at 6 o’clock, have been kept as well, regardless of the new movement – thus have their measurements and the space between the sub-counters and the focal hands. The lone perceptible contrast is the “IWC Schaffhausen” logo, with a more present day text style and a marginally more modest size. Likewise, apparently the silver shade of the old ref. 3714 seems somewhat hotter than the colder shade of the new ref. 3716 – this may be brought about by the aging interaction however. To put it plainly, except for the logo, nothing has changed.
As we said, it truly is about subtleties. Past the habillage of this watch is the place where IWC makes a piece stride forward.
Main update: the in-house type of the 3716
Back in 1998, mechanical watches were gradually being restored. In those days, the idea of having a programmed movement was at that point enough to stimulate the interest of a watch fan. Which is the reason, in request to keep the watch at an attainable level, IWC picked a solid base movement to prepare the 3714, and afterward refreshed it to its own requirements. However, we’re not in the 1990s any longer and the overall information on the normal watch fan has changed significantly. These days, a watch needs in excess of a remotely sourced movement to be alluring and to be viewed as a component of the “high-end” club. An in-house movement is viewed as a gigantic plus.
IWC has for quite some time been manufacturing its own movements in-house, and chronographs have been a center item for the brand. However, up to this point, in-house chronographs at IWC implied the type 89xxx, a complex, incredible and enormous movement fitted in watches with 5-digit sticker prices. Nonetheless, with the introduction of the new Ingenieur assortment in 2016, the brand chose to add another in-house chronograph movement to its portfolio, this time, in any case, with less complex mechanics and more restrained measurements – the 69xxx family that we’ve investigated in detail here .
As completely self-ruling assembling with a complete scope of in-house movements, reasonable for every one of its watches, from passage level 3-handers to super complex tourbillon QPs, the thought was basic for IWC. This new 69xxx arrangement of movements are straightforward, dependable, hearty types intended to prepare less difficult watches. It disposes of certain IWC signature components, for example, the Pellaton winding framework (despite the fact that a tick framework near the Pellaton winding framework is fitted). Likewise, and despite the fact that created, planned and made at IWC in Schaffhausen or by Richemont Group-claimed companies, the movement is intentionally close in design to a 7750, in request to make it effectively versatile with existing models – the new 3716 is the ideal illustration of this delicate transition.
However, the movement found in this IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716, the type 69355, is certainly an incredible improvement compared to the old 7750. Above all else, it is much better looking and would now be able to be gladly appeared under a sapphire caseback. Second, it depends on a segment wheel for the beginning/stop/reset tasks, making the pushers far smoother to use than the old 3714. Finally, the force save goes up from 44h to now 46h – minimal, yet at the same time an improvement.
Let’s come to the heart of the matter: on the off chance that you didn’t like the past forms of IWC Portugieser Chronograph, you’re not going to like the new 3716… However, in the event that you’ve consistently preferred the vibe of the 3714, the new form is essentially a superior watch. No discussion, period!
This new form of the IWC Portugieser Chronograph may be the most astute dispatch of the brand lately, for the main explanation that is hasn’t transformed anything to do with the plan and has simply improved what should have been improved. IWC has kept its 22-year-old symbol outwardly intact, so the proprietors of the past model won’t feel like they’re wearing a “outdated” watch. All the wonderful components are there, the extents are practically indistinguishable and even the tones offered are the equivalent. We don’t regularly see brands deciding not to adjust a watch… and that makes this new 3716 a develop, very much idea item with incredible added an incentive for the consumer.
Indeed, for a truly sensible increase of EUR 250, you’ll now have an in-house movement that is noticeable under a sapphire precious stone. And all the rest is tied in with having an ageless watch that won’t leave design soon.
Price, models and availability
The new IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 is accessible in six variants, which are equivalent to the past adaptations accessible with the ref. 3714:
- IW371604 – steel, silver dial, gold-plated hands and appliqués, dark gator strap
- IW371605 – steel, silver-plated dial, blue hands and appliqués, dark gator calfskin strap
- IW371606 – steel, blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, dark cowhide strap
- IW371609 – steel, dark dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliqués, dark gator strap
- IW371610 – 18k 5N rose gold, record hued dial, gold plated hands, 18k gold appliqués, dark croc strap
- IW371611 – 18k 5N rose gold, silver-plated dial, gold-plated hands, 18k gold appliqués, earthy colored crocodile cowhide strap
The new IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 is presently accessible (February 2020) at IWC stores, on the brand’s webshop and at true retailers. It will be valued at EUR 7,850 or CHF 8,200 in stainless steel and EUR 17,600 or CHF 18,200 in 18k rose gold. More subtleties at www.iwc.com .