A few weeks prior, we introduced you the whole rundown of watches that will be auctioned for a noble cause during Only Watch 2019. We likewise set aside some effort to story a more critical glance at the absolute best unique pieces, including what must be our greatest squash: a one-to-one re-edition of the 1950s military Breguet Type 20 . As of late, we got the opportunity to have this Breguet Type 20 Revival 2055ST for Only Watch 2019 in our hands (however not on our wrists) and without delving into all the details, we simply needed to impart to you our impression (spoiler alert: what a watch!).
THE TYPE 20
While the watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet is verifiably connected with delicate, top of the line pocket watches and a few notable inventions in watchmaking, the Maison additionally uncovers another aspect of its set of experiences: aviation. The name Breguet is additionally connected with a plane maker, the Société d’Aviation Louis Breguet, a company founded by a descendant of Monsieur Breguet. Additionally, from 1918 onwards, Breguet provided a few watches for the American Air Force, chronographs with counters and tachometers, which could either be worn by the pilots or fastened to the plane’s instrument board. Breguet continued to provide progressively modern chronographs to different aviation and airplane companies.
However, Breguet’s primary foray into aviation came in the mid 1950s. The French Ministry of Defense drew up specifications with the end goal of buying chronograph wristwatches for its Air Force, to be known as Type 20. Breguet communicated its advantage and designed a model that was immediately endorsed by the specialists, in 1954, with another watch named Breguet Type 20.
The Type 20 was presented as a pilot’s watch outfitted with a flyback chronograph, the symbolic function of this watch. The flyback function permits the chronograph to be reset to zero by just squeezing the lower press button. The chronograph Type 20 or Type XX advanced through three progressive generations. It was discontinued, yet during the 1990s Breguet relaunched this model, transforming it into an effective extravagance chronograph.
The Unique Breguet Type 20 Revival 2055ST for Only Watch 2019
So here we are with this excellence in our hands (sorry for not having a wrist shot, this wasn’t permitted). As mentioned, this unique piece is a genuine reissue of the first, military-issue Breguet Type 20, understand by that a one-to-one re-edition directly down to the proportions and the mechanics (nearly). The case is wonderfully proportioned, with a 38.30mm width (like the first) with angled carries, mushroom pushers and an onion crown – something common of the original, along with the fluted, non-stamped bezel.
This Breguet Type 20 Revival 2055ST Only Watch 2019 is actually what such a watch was, thinking back to the 1960s when new, with the exception of the sapphire precious stone on top – notwithstanding, it is exceptionally domed to emulate Plexiglas. The look is just heavenly, reliable and desirable. Same goes for the dial, which has been treated in a “tropical” path with a dim earthy colored shading that plays on the maturing pattern. Hands, numerals, scales and sub-dials are completely designed much the same as one of the early models, without the normal 30-minute counter with brilliant 5-minute markers at 3 o’clock that showed up later on the Type 20.
While the caseback is shut, what’s “under the hood” is just about as desirable as the remainder of the watch. No modern programmed development here, yet rather a renovated authentic Valjoux type 235 – which is derived straightforwardly from the Valjoux 222 utilized during the 1950s by Breguet. Normally, this hand-wound, segment wheel chronograph includes a flyback function and gives this edition extraordinary legitimacy.
Altogether, the Breguet Type 20 Revival 2055ST Only Watch 2019 is a splendid piece, which will definitely draw the attention of bidders during the auction. Presently comes another question… We realize that a portion of the watches appeared at the Only Watch auction are in some cases antecedents of future commercial models. Breguet hasn’t uncovered if this will be the situation with this Type 20 Revival 2055ST, however assuming this is the case, include me! www.breguet.com .
Only Watch is a biennial pledge drive for research on strong dystrophy – Association Monégasque Contre les Myopathies (AMM). Coordinated under the patronage of HSH Albert II de Monaco, the watches of the eighth edition will be auctioned by Christie’s on Saturday 9 November 2019. More details at www.onlywatch.com .