The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix “Sepia Brown” Collection

The dispatch of Vacheron’s Fiftysix collection in 2018 was a shock for a large number of us, denoting a reasonable separation from the brand’s exemplary collections. Initially positioned as a section level collection to pull in a more youthful generation of customers, the Fiftysix promoted a programmed three-hand model in steel with an ‘available’ sticker price of EUR 11,000. Albeit the notion of Vacheron Constantin delivering an ‘moderate’ watch is at chances with the brand’s admired reputation for Haute Horlogerie, the thought was to lure a more youthful, trendier client. How? By getting on board with the popular retro bandwagon and returning to a 1956 model in a contemporary key. Refining a fashionable retro-contemporary vibe, the Fiftysix has showed up as a complete schedule , a tourbillon , and a day/date .

Having explored different avenues regarding silver and blue dials, Vacheron chose to create a rich, warm brown tone to counterbalance the extravagant allure of 18k pink gold. Last April, two 40mm pink gold store elite models with sepia-brown dials – a complete schedule and programmed – were welcomed into the Fiftysix family. The combination of a pink gold case with a warm brown dial is exemplary and lavish, yet subtleties like the area dial, the calfskin lash with beige sewing, and the hints of lume declare its more easygoing personality.

The Ancestor

Reference 6073 of 1956 was the brand’s first programmed, water-safe watch with case carries that evoked the four arms of the meaningful Maltese cross. The 40mm instance of the Fiftysix gets on the Maltese cross configuration yet in a bolder, more contemporary fashion. Despite the fact that plan components on the dial of the first have not transitioned to the Fiftysix, the presence of a container type gem ascending high over the bezel summons the vintage reference 6073 along with the area dials that were well known in the 1950s.

Fiftysix Complete Calendar

This is the most complete model in the Fiftysix line-up with day, date and month indications, just as a precision moon stage requiring no change for a very long time. Less complex and more affordable than a yearly or never-ending schedule, complete or triple schedules complete 31-day cycles and require a change five times each year. Given the engaging format of a complete calendar,  changing the watch five times each year isn’t a particularly overwhelming assignment after all.

The design corresponds to the traditional format of triple schedules: two windows for the day of the week and month under 12 o’clock and an opening for the periods of the moon at 6 o’clock. The date is shown by an additional gold bolt tipped hand and put on the dial’s external edge, a configuration that is otherwise called a pointer date.

Matching the rich 40mm x 11.60mm pink gold case, the applied Arabic numerals are additionally made structure pink gold just like the baton hour markers. Underscoring its contemporary character, the baton hour markers and the hour and moment hands are treated with brilliant material. The trademark Fiftysix area dial, with its white and dark rail line track in the middle, gives a refreshing 1950s contrast to the exemplary brown and gold foundation. The alluring shade of brown chose for the dial is improved with sunburst and snailed finishings.

An in-house programmed 2460QCI/1 type controls the Complete Calendar with Hallmark of Geneva certification. Like the carries, the openworked 22k pink gold rotor follows the type of the Maltese cross.

Quick facts: Fiftysix Complete Calendar Ref. 4000E/000R-B065 – 40mm x 11.6mm – 18k pink gold – box-type sapphire gem over dial, sapphire gem caseback – 30m water-obstruction – brown dial with applied pink gold numerals and markers – in-house type 2460 QCL/1 programmed – 28,800vph – 40h force save – Hallmark of Geneva affirmed – hours, minutes, focal seconds, complete schedule, precision moon stage – brown calfskin with beige sewing and 18k rose gold pin clasp –  EUR 36,400

Fiftysix Self-Winding

Representing the easiest model in the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix line-up, the Self-Winding is a three-hand-and-date watch combining vintage styling with contemporary subtleties. With its perfect, basic design, this programmed best manifestes the vintage aspirations of the Fiftysix family. Like every Fiftysix model, the dial shows an area format with an external minutes/seconds track and an inside high contrast rail line style track. Opaline, sunburst and snailed completes enhance the sepia-brown dial set off with applied gold Arabic numerals and markers. A watchful date window at 3 o’clock and dashes of radiant material on the hands and markers confirm its function as an every day beater.

The sparkling 18k pink gold case has a 40mm width and a stature of 9.6mm. Notwithstanding, the development is anything but an in-house type and isn’t ensured by the Hallmark of Geneva seal. This decision attracted a lot of analysis its day by the individuals who considered a rethought development a ‘selling out’ of the brand’s standards. In actuality, the watch is furnished with a development created by ValFleurier (part of Richemont Group) and dependent on a Cartier ébauche. Running at 28,000vph, the development can store 48 hours of force. With regards to the superb finishings all through, the development is additionally perfectly beautified with Côtes de Genève and highlights an openworked 22k pink gold rotor molded like a Maltese cross.

Quick facts: Fiftysix Self-Winding Ref. 4600E/000R-B576 – 40mm x 9.6mm – 18k pink gold – box-type sapphire gem over dial, sapphire precious stone caseback – 30m water-obstruction – brown dial with applied pink gold numerals and markers – programmed type 1326 – 28,800vph – 48h force hold – hours, minutes, focal seconds and date – brown calfskin tie with 18k rose gold pin clasp –  EUR 20,000

Thoughts

The winning combination of luscious brown dials and lavish pink gold cases is difficult to beat. Notwithstanding, the inalienable danger in this combination is that the watches could wind up sitting in a more pompous, formal classification that may estrange the very group that the Fiftysix is attempting to please. Luckily, the vintage vibe and certain plan highlights, similar to the area dial, the application of iridescent material or more all, the more easygoing and laid-back presence of a calfskin tie with beige sewing, figure out how to ground these models and make them reasonable for regular wear.

Since we’re managing Vacheron Constantin, the concept of “entry-level” must be perceived in elaborate and not monetary terms. All things considered, the easiest steel model beginnings at EUR 12,300 and costs rise to EUR 128,000 for a gold tourbillon. The all-encompassing vintage vibe of the Fiftysix collection is unmistakably intended to entice a more youthful generation who respect the brand yet don’t need an exemplary watch that their dad or granddad may endorse.

More subtleties at Vacheron Constantin .