The Jürgensen name holds an exceptional spot in the tenuous universe of Haute Horlogerie. This horological tradition has affected watchmaking in Denmark and Switzerland over hundreds of years. Today, the brand settled in Biel, Switzerland has zeroed in solely on unmistakable dress watches expanding upon now is the ideal time regarded inheritance described by master craftsmanship and an ethic of no-compromise. However, with the Jürgensen One, this is going to change.
When we discovered that Soren Petersen (the CEO of Urban Jürgensen) and his group were dealing with a steel luxury sports watch, our ears pricked up. The luxury sports watch classification has for some time been overwhelmed by two symbols: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. What’s more, in this example, the word symbol isn’t abused as there is truly something strict in the manner authorities feel about these two watches.
In 1972, with the Royal Oak, Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet characterized a classification that has never appeared to be more important. The model is direct: coordinate an energetic yet plainly extravagantly made steel watch with an incorporated steel wristband and a programmed, super flimsy development. To wrap things up, the watch should be made with careful consideration regarding subtleties. On the off chance that the greater part of the major Haute Horlogerie brands have planned models in the class – Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Girard-Perregaux Laureato, IWC Ingénieur, Piaget Polo, Cartier Santos, Bvlgari Octo, to give some examples – scarcely any free watchmakers have delivered luxury sports watches.
Expanding in the steel luxury sports classification, Urban Jürgensen targets tending to a more youthful demographic with the Jürgensen One, an ideal all-rounder that you can wear the entire day, each day.
With nothing of the sort existing in the brand’s rich documents, the test was to make something new, from a clear page, while regarding its DNA. Soren Petersen clarifies that his goal was to make a watch that would be “extremely unadulterated in the inception of the basic idea… not the same as every comparable item… that would be conspicuous 10 meters away … and still of unadulterated Urban Jürgensen heritage“.
The Jürgensen One collection
The Jürgensen One is an advanced steel watch that feels exemplary and current simultaneously. With no straight edges, the lucidness and equilibrium of the plan are accomplished by varieties of roundabout shapes (as demonstrated on the renderings utilized as foundation for the image underneath). Because of the first oval-formed focal connections, the steel arm band has an unmistakable character.
From a specialized point of view, the 41mm case is a 7-piece development with exclusively patched drags. In this regard, the completing of the case, with glossy silk brushed and reflect cleaned surfaces, is great. Urban Jürgensen settled on clinical embed grade 1.4441 steel, offering expanded consumption opposition, with a low degree of nickel – about a large portion of the nickel content of 904L steel. Water-obstruction is of 120 metres.
The dial of the Jürgensen One is made as one piece and highlights facetted mallet style hour markers decorated with iridescent material. The fringe of the dial highlights grenage while the middle part is somewhat recessed and designed with a wave-style grain d’orge (barleycorn) guilloché design. The hand-completed hands hold the Urban Jürgensen plan components and aggressive assembling principles with hand-rivetted focus standards. These are carefully openworked, somewhat bowed at their furthest point, cleaned or thermally blued. The expansion of Super-LumiNova gives superb clarity in low light.
For the GMT adaptation of the Jürgensen One, the brand built up a particular development (not simply a module, the extra capacity is underlying) giving basic and instinctive use. It includes a 24-hour sub-dial for the home time at 6 o’clock. Two pushers consider the autonomous forward/in reverse adjustment of the focal hour hand (neighborhood time) in one-hour increases. In this way, when you show up at your objective, a couple of presses to change the time, (forward with the upper pusher, in reverse with the lower pusher) are everything necessary. The home time is changed by the crown.
The arm band of the Jürgensen One merits a more critical look. It is consistently coordinated into the case and stands apart with its particular oval-molded focal connections. Such a wristband is basically something you don’t anticipate from a specialty free watchmaker. Assembling fine wristbands is complex and costly explicitly when you don’t manage certain amounts. Moreover, the Jürgensen One arm band is tightened, implying that each connection is extraordinarily formed (with the exception of the last ones intended to be taken out for changes). Like the case, it is fashioned out of clinical evaluation 1.4441 steel. The oval center connection development is exceptionally complex and gives the ideal flexibility.
Additional end connections of various length permit the arm band to be changed impeccably to the wrist. It is gotten with a butterfly wellbeing collapsing fasten. To deliver the clasp, the two pushers must be squeezed all the while. To wrap things up, the general completing – including surfaces and changes – of the case and arm band is flawless.
The Jürgensen One collection utilizes a restrictive development, the Urban Jürgensen P5, a programmed adaptation of the brand’s P4. It comes in two unique forms, the time-and-date and the GMT. Like the P4, the P5 is a huge 32mm type. The screw-balance, which runs at 21,600 vibrations each hour, is gotten under a cross-over extension to give ideal dependability. Its two barrels can store a solid 72-hour power hold. The stop seconds system considers exact adjustment.
The show caseback gives sufficient proof of the consideration devoted to its wrapping up. The scaffolds are finely chamfered and beautified with Geneva stripes transmitting from the equilibrium wheel. The screws are blued. The rotor is openworked with a Urban Jürgensen shield and a 22k gold external winding section.
Designing a luxury sports watch is certifiably not a simple undertaking and Urban Jürgensen can be glad for its accomplishment. Its first endeavor, with the Jürgensen One collection, is rich, curbed yet striking simultaneously. Also, as you’ve come to expect with the brand, fastidious meticulousness is apparent all through. It has a remarkable character making it a truly very much made and alluring alternative for those searching for an unmistakable and restrictive luxury sports watch.
There are three dial variations for the time-and-date Ref. 5241: delicate white, charcoal dim or Jürgensen blue. The GMT model Ref. 5541 comes with a blue dial in particular. Cost for the Jürgensen One collection is CHF 24,500 for the time-and-date and CHF 33,500 for the GMT. Ref. 5241 will be accessible as of April 2019 and Ref. 5541 in May 2019. For more data, kindly visit www.urbanjurgensen.com .