The Jürgensen name holds an uncommon spot in the tenuous universe of Haute Horlogerie. This horological administration has affected watchmaking in Denmark and Switzerland over hundreds of years. Today, the brand settled in Biel, Switzerland has zeroed in only on unmistakable dress watches expanding upon now is the right time regarded inheritance described by master craftsmanship and an ethic of no-compromise. In any case, with the Jürgensen One, this is going to change.
When we discovered that Soren Petersen (the CEO of Urban Jürgensen) and his group were chipping away at a steel luxury sports watch, our ears pricked up. The luxury sports watch class has for some time been overwhelmed by two symbols: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. What’s more, in this occasion, the word symbol isn’t abused as there is truly something strict in the manner gatherers feel about these two watches.
In 1972, with the Royal Oak, Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet characterized a kind that has never appeared to be more significant. The prime example is direct: coordinate an energetic however plainly lavishly made steel watch with an incorporated steel arm band and a programmed, super slim development. To wrap things up, the watch should be produced with careful consideration regarding subtleties. In the event that the greater part of the major Haute Horlogerie brands have planned models in the class – Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Girard-Perregaux Laureato, IWC Ingénieur, Piaget Polo, Cartier Santos, Bvlgari Octo, to give some examples – hardly any autonomous watchmakers have delivered luxury sports watches.
Expanding in the steel luxury sports class, Urban Jürgensen targets tending to a more youthful customer base with the Jürgensen One, an ideal all-rounder that you can wear throughout the day, each day.
With nothing of the sort existing in the brand’s rich files, the test was to make something new, from a clear page, while regarding its DNA. Soren Petersen clarifies that his goal was to make a watch that would be “extremely unadulterated in the root of the major idea… not quite the same as every single comparable item… that would be conspicuous 10 meters away … and still of unadulterated Urban Jürgensen heritage“.
The Jürgensen One collection
The Jürgensen One is a cutting edge steel watch that feels exemplary and current simultaneously. With no straight edges, the cognizance and equilibrium of the plan are accomplished by varieties of round shapes (as demonstrated on the renderings utilized as foundation for the image beneath). On account of the first oval-molded focal connections, the steel wristband has a particular character.
From a specialized viewpoint, the 41mm case is a 7-piece development with independently bound carries. In this regard, the completing of the case, with glossy silk brushed and reflect cleaned surfaces, is amazing. Urban Jürgensen selected clinical embed grade 1.4441 steel, offering expanded erosion obstruction, with a low degree of nickel – about a large portion of the nickel content of 904L steel. Water-obstruction is of 120 metres.
The dial of the Jürgensen One is fabricated as one piece and highlights facetted stick style hour markers trimmed with brilliant material. The fringe of the dial highlights grenage while the middle part is marginally recessed and designed with a wave-style grain d’orge (barleycorn) guilloché design. The hand-completed hands hold the Urban Jürgensen plan components and aggressive assembling guidelines with hand-rivetted focus ordinances. These are gently openworked, somewhat twisted at their limit, cleaned or thermally blued. The expansion of Super-LumiNova gives great comprehensibility in low light.
For the GMT form of the Jürgensen One, the brand built up a particular development (not simply a module, the extra capacity is implicit) giving basic and instinctive use. It includes a 24-hour sub-dial for the home time at 6 o’clock. Two pushers take into account the free forward/in reverse revision of the focal hour hand (nearby time) in one-hour increases. Thus, when you show up at your objective, a couple of presses to change the time, (forward with the upper pusher, in reverse with the lower pusher) are everything necessary. The home time is changed by the crown.
The arm band of the Jürgensen One merits a more intensive look. It is flawlessly incorporated into the case and stands apart with its particular oval-formed focal connections. Such a wristband is just something you don’t anticipate from a specialty free watchmaker. Assembling fine arm bands is complex and costly explicitly when you don’t manage certain amounts. Moreover, the Jürgensen One wristband is tightened, implying that each connection is exceptionally molded (aside from the last ones intended to be taken out for changes). Like the case, it is fashioned out of clinical evaluation 1.4441 steel. The oval center connection development is profoundly complex and gives the ideal flexibility.
Additional end connections of various length permit the arm band to be changed impeccably to the wrist. It is gotten with a butterfly security collapsing catch. To deliver the clasp, the two pushers must be squeezed all the while. To wrap things up, the general completing – including surfaces and changes – of the case and wristband is flawless.
The Jürgensen One collection utilizes an exclusive development, the Urban Jürgensen P5, a programmed variant of the brand’s P4. It comes in two distinct forms, the time-and-date and the GMT. Like the P4, the P5 is an enormous 32mm type. The screw-balance, which runs at 21,600 vibrations each hour, is gotten under a cross-over scaffold to give ideal dependability. Its two barrels can store a solid 72-hour power hold. The stop seconds system takes into account exact adjustment.
The presentation caseback gives plentiful proof of the consideration devoted to its wrapping up. The scaffolds are finely chamfered and brightened with Geneva stripes emanating from the equilibrium wheel. The screws are blued. The rotor is openworked with a Urban Jürgensen shield and a 22k gold external winding section.
Designing a luxury sports watch is certifiably not a simple undertaking and Urban Jürgensen can be pleased with its accomplishment. Its first endeavor, with the Jürgensen One collection, is exquisite, curbed yet striking simultaneously. Also, as you’ve come to expect with the brand, fastidious tender loving care is obvious all through. It has an exceptional character making it a genuinely all around made and appealing choice for those searching for an unmistakable and restrictive luxury sports watch.
There are three dial variations for the time-and-date Ref. 5241: delicate white, charcoal dim or Jürgensen blue. The GMT model Ref. 5541 comes with a blue dial in particular. Cost for the Jürgensen One collection is CHF 24,500 for the time-and-date and CHF 33,500 for the GMT. Ref. 5241 will be accessible as of April 2019 and Ref. 5541 in May 2019. For more data, if it’s not too much trouble, visit www.urbanjurgensen.com .