If you’re a common peruser of MONOCHROME, you should now thoroughly understand Urban Jürgensen – and on the off chance that you don’t, we urge you to have a more intensive look here , as this autonomous watchmaker really merits the attention of haute horlogerie sweethearts. As of late, we got the opportunity to have a serious elite piece from this assembling in our hands, the Reference 1741 – a work of art, exquisite and watchful perpetual calendar that is loaded with all the brand’s savoir-faire. So let’s have a more intensive gander at it.
Details, subtleties, details…
As with each watch made by this little watchmaker, the Urban Jürgensen Reference 1741 is a dining experience for watch aficionados. It is about covered up or attentive subtleties that together make a really accomplished and adjusted item. Everything appears to be correct where it ought to be and no part feels pointless. Subtleties, all around.
While the general state of the case is a work of art, cycle, 3-section platinum issue, a portion of the points give a clue that there is significantly more going on. The cleaning is, as you would anticipate, immaculate. The bezel has a convex profile, which adds decent reflections and distortions, and is undeniably more complex to clean than a level or concave surface. The genuine magnificence of the case lies, in any case, in the drags. The adjusted “teardrops” give the case its interesting personality. What less know is the means by which they are made: separately produced and completed, extreme consideration and ability are needed from the case creator to weld them on to the case.
Then comes the dial. From the start and from a specific distance, it shows up comparably a level, silvered surface. A nearer inspection uncovers a fine, grained surface, known as grenage. It is a dial-production strategy beginning in the last part of the 1800s that is infrequently utilized nowadays, chiefly because of its complexity. This hand tailored cycle, done dial by dial, starts with a plate of strong silver which is then engraved with super fine markings. The etchings are hand-loaded up with veneer. Subsequent to solidifying, the surface is diamond paper-cleaned to leave its buildup in the furrows. The grenage layer is then fabricated bit by bit as “a secret blend of silver, salts and other ingredients” and is hand-brushed on to the individual dial. By electrochemical reaction, the surface arises as a pearled/iced finish. The outcome is novel, refined and subtle.
The dial of the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1741 highlights two other brilliant components. In the first place, are the adapted Urban Jürgensen Arabic numerals – an evolution of the acclaimed Breguet numerals. The numerals are made of white gold, domed and hand-cleaned. Second, are the hands, made of blued steel and yellow gold, with their unmistakable shape that are click-mounted with a diamond cleaned eye in yellow gold. These hands are amazing to such an extent that we composed a whole story on them (an absolute necessity read).
If there’s one thing about Urban Jürgensen’s watches – and much more so with this reference 1741 Perpetual Calendar – is that we’re miles from any trace of bling or ostentation. This watch is about tactful style, controlled proportions and subtleties for those aware of everything. Nothing shouts its provenance… in any event, from the outset. A prepared eye will quickly recognize the magnificence of this watch. Also, that’s what makes it so attractive. The definition of genuine extravagance for some.
With its 41mm case, produced in platinum (a substantial and uncommon metal that feels lavish for its wearer only), the Urban Jurgensen Reference 1741 flies under the radar – or under a sleeve on the off chance that you like. Its dial, despite the fact that flawlessly completed as we clarified, remains incredibly unpretentious and clean. Absolutely, watch devotees and seasoned gatherers will handily perceive its complexity however the amateur won’t be stunned by its extravagance. Discretion can be a preferred position in certain conditions.
The watch, as worn here on a dark gator lash (which can be altered, obviously), is about tones of silver and dim and refined surfaces. The case is cleaned, the dial has a little curve with its shining silver grenage surface and only the bizarre state of the hauls and the mark hands provide some insight about what’s going on here. This watch is a selfish object of delight that doesn’t parade its honorable origins.
Not numerous shocks on the mechanical side of this Urban Jürgensen Reference 1741 Perpetual Calendar. Don’t misunderstand us, it has some horological family however the development is notable and utilizations a similar base as the Reference 1140 . The Caliber P4 is a restrictive development grown only for UJ by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode. This hand-wound development beats at 21,600 vibrations each hour and the enormous equilibrium is held set up under an openwork cross-over scaffold. The stop-seconds component takes into consideration exact time setting. The two barrels can save to 60 hours of force save. The contours of the three extensions, with Geneva stripes emanating from the equilibrium wheel, are featured with brilliant anglage. The full equilibrium wheel connect is openworked and highlights inside and outside points while the enormous equilibrium wheel is held set up with change screws. The screws are thermally blued and the gem sinks and breaks are finely cleaned by hand.
The fundamental distinction is that, in the context of this Reference 1741 Perpetual Calendar, a module has been added on top for the calendar indications. It depends on the brand’s signature show, which combines intelligibility and equilibrium plan – the dial doesn’t feel excessively jumbled. The date is appeared in a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, while the day of the week and the month depend on gaps. The moon, positioned at 12 o’clock, adds a touch of inventiveness. Compared to more seasoned references with this presentation, Urban Jürgensen has added the jump year indication into the date sub-dial.
Price and availability
The Urban Jürgensen Reference 1741 Perpetual Calendar is essential for the normal collection of the brand and all things considered, can be found at retailers. Notwithstanding, it is delivered in low volumes, stressing its eliteness. It is valued at EUR 85,800 (excl. Tank), which is along these lines as comparable platinum QPs from Vacheron or Patek (yet with undeniably less hand-completed parts and not a similar shortage). More subtleties at www.urbanjurgensen.com .