For this 2020 release of Watches & Wonders, Vacheron Constantin presents its Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, a shocking showcase of watchmaking ability housed in an extravagant pink gold case with a ultra-thin stature of simply 8.1mm. Nothing has changed in regards to the case, its extents, the format or the pulsating heart of the development fueled by Vacheron’s lofty Caliber 1120 QP. The oddity of this 2020 release lies in its gutsy skeletonisation. Hand-completed development parts, in accordance with the Maison’s longstanding custom of Haute Horlogerie, are combined with dark NAC-treated parts for a contemporary face with regards to the lively soul of the Overseas.
Brief Background of the Overseas
In 1977, Vacheron Constantin acquainted reference 222 with mark the brand’s 222nd commemoration. Planned by Jörg Hysek, the 222 was a very good quality games watch with a tonneau-formed 120m water-safe case, a serrated bezel and an incorporated arm band. Rehashed in 2016, under the aegis of creative chief Christian Selmoni, the Overseas assortment is Vacheron’s response to the extravagance sports watch. The unmistakable, ground-breaking plan of the case is worked around a hexagonal, indented and cleaned bezel summoning the badge Maltese Cross laying on a tonneau-formed case with differentiating matte completions. Complemented via programmed, against attractive developments, the adaptability of the watch is underscored with its triumphant DIY framework to change the mind-set of the watch with the any of the three arm bands gave. Going from programmed time-and-date models to double time and world time models, from chronographs to tourbillons as far as possible up to ultra-thin perpetual calendars , the assortment is well furnished.
What is fascinating to note is that the ultra-thin perpetual calendar made its presentation back in 2016 with the relaunch of the Overseas. A to some degree startling complication in a group of extravagance sports watches, the shut model form is currently joined by this openworked version.
The case, produced using 18k pink gold, has not been changed and gauges 41.5mm and brags a ultra-thin tallness simply 8.1mm. With its cleaned hexagonal bezel and differentiating brushed case and wristband, the outer components of the watch show the conventional very good quality completions of the Maison.
The perpetual calendar format is indistinguishable from the shut dial form and is masterminded around four sub-dials. The ring at 12 o’clock demonstrates the months, however you will see that they bounce in a bizarre request. An average Vacheron highlight of its QP developments, this four year sub-dial shows the long periods of four years, including the months of the jump year. The times of the week at 9 o’clock are countered by the date at 3 o’clock and the periods of the moon are set at 6 o’clock. The pink gold hands and applied hour markers are upgraded with radiance and there is a part ring for the minutes with blue Arabic numerals and dark markers.
A profoundly respected complication, the perpetual calendar development (type 1120 QPSQ) driving this watch shows up in another pretense and now uncovers all its charming mechanical parts under the sapphire gems on the two sides of the case. Skeletonisation is a craftsmanship in itself and comprises of emptying out components without compromising their dependability. What’s more, with regards to skeletonising a generally complicated QP development in a ultra-thin organization, there are not many watchmakers qualified for this difficult assignment. Since the development is presently visible, uncommon hand tailored completions have been performed on the parts: surfaces are designed with glossy silk brushed completions; straight lines and bends are slanted to get the light; and afterward there is round brushing, sunburst completing, roundabout graining and cleaning. Notwithstanding the hand-made completions, a few pieces of the system are blessed to receive a NAC electrolytic interaction that gives them a contemporary anthracite dim tone. Another touch that adds to its contemporary face is the thinly hidden front of the moon stage created in sapphire to uncover the second moon.
Ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar won’t need any changes in accordance with its calendar signs or moon stages until 1 March 2100. Accomplishing this degree of execution in a type composed of 276 components and simply 4.05mm tallness means the ability of Vacheron’s watchmakers.
Visible through the sapphire caseback are the stuff trains and the NAC-treated swaying weight with its fragment in 22k gold. Without precedent for the Overseas assortment, the rotor is openworked to feature its Maltese Cross plan. Type 1120 QPSQ, which bears the lofty Geneva Hallmark seal, is a programmed development wavering at 19,800vph/2.75Hz with a 40-hour power hold for the hours, minutes, perpetual calendar (date, day, month, jump year) and moon phases.
With maybe the most straightforward DIY lash changing frameworks available, the Overseas is constantly accompanied by three tradable ties. For this situation, the watch comes with a rich gold wristband with glossy silk brushed Maltese Cross-molded connections and two extra lashes in blue crocodile calfskin and blue rubber.
The cost of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton (Ref. 4300V/120R-B547) is EUR 130,000 and may be accessible at Vacheron Constantin shops. More subtleties at vacheron-constantin.com.